Electric Stabilizer Jack Failure - Can these be converted?

[ZZSPIRAL]

First time out and a motor in a jack failed. I say heck with electric, does anyone know if these can be converted to manual operation?

Incidentally, you can move them if they fail. Pop the cap off and hope your battery on your drill is charged. I swear the rotations are in the hundreds.

 

[roy-FUN]

Spray electric contact spray in them and that usually gets them back going. The problem with these things especially on the rear is water is getting in them where the two power wires enter the aluminum housing. I've sealed mine up with silicone. I also spray some wd40 up in there and that seems to keep them working. My two rear ones have gave me all sorts of problem due to moisture. Trailer tires kick up all kinds of water when traveling in the rain. I plan to file a warranty claim on mine when I put our camper in the shop come winter to fix this and several other issues.

 

[Dakota 1120]

When ordering my unit, I opted NOT to get the electric stabilizer jacks for the very reasons listed above. My 18 volt Dewalt drill runs the manual stabilizers down or up quickly without fail plus I already had it so saved me some $$.

 

[ZZSPIRAL]

First of all, I don't believe it was electical. It triggered, but then wouldn't go up or down. Additionally, I can see oil leaking with the cap removed. A seal must have ruptured.

I've figured out how to make them manual. Disconnect the wires and remove the four allan screws. Then you have two choices:

1. If you leave the motor brackets on, then file/grind down the flared portion of the manual crank handle that Cruiser supplied with the trailer, so that it will fit through the hole in the bracket. I did it with a file, and it didn't take long. This way you don't have to drill new holes into the frame.

2. Remove the motor brackets and drill new holes into the frame.


The motors probably aren't worth anything without the brackets. I hear they're $150 each new, but the question is, who would you sell em to? I suppose Ebay.

Regardless, my fancy electic jacks are now manual operation (brackets still on). Like someone eluded to earlier, a drill is 10x faster and trouble free. I'll order a fitting for my drill.

Maybe I'll see about getting new brackets, sell all four (warranty owes me one) on Ebay for $200-$300. I'm not that worried about it, just glad I don't have to deal with them. I never would have ordered these and I knew they would eventually be trouble. I guess I could have gotten the trailer cheaper without them. I made an offer on a new one (West Coast) for 20K. The trailer came loaded.

Eventually the slow-arsch tounge jack will fail too. I'll pick up a manual one for $30. I wish the awning and slider were manual.

 

[ZZSPIRAL]

Incidentally, if you take apart the motor you'l find a crank fitting for your jacks. Add a bolt and you'll have a crank for your drill. Works WAY better than electric jacks.

 

[Seadog]

We keep an electric drill in the trailer and when the stabilizers freeze up the drill helps get them going again.