Handy top for blowing out waterlines

THAT is a great tip! I'm done for this year but I'll definitely be making that adaptor for Winterizing next year!
I do believe it's very important to ensure that the pressure from the compressor or air tank is set to the recommended 40 PSI before hooking the fitting to the system.
Thanks Eagle!
 
THAT is a great tip! I'm done for this year but I'll definitely be making that adaptor for Winterizing next year!
I do believe it's very important to ensure that the pressure from the compressor or air tank is set to the recommended 40 PSI before hooking the fitting to the system.
Thanks Eagle!



Ditto... great idea and to expand on the air pressure concern - with some compressors, even if you dial down the PSI you may have a moment of high pressure from the tank till you bleed off some air. For the safety of the plumbing start low and dial up to 40 PSI
 
I used to blow mine out years ago. I do not any more for two reasons. One it takes longer and two a good quality RV Antifreeze lubricates all the rubbers and pump including the toilet and dump valves. 5 minutes is all it takes to suck through the pump and flow through every fixture. Then I know all the water is out of the low points. The lubricating properties are the most important part in my experience.
 
This covers my procedure:

1. Drain the black and grey water tanks.
2. Drain the fresh water tank.
3. Remove the water heater anode rod and flush the water heater. Reinstall anode rod.
4. Open all the faucets then open the low point drains. Once water has drained out, close the low point drains.
5. Blow out the waterlines and the black water flush system with air. Have the black water tank drain open when blowing out the black water flush system with air.
6. Using the bypass system - pump antifreeze thru the lines and out of each faucet, the outside shower, stool and tub/shower fixtures.
7. Dump about a pint of antifreeze down each drain and leave a some in the stool bowl too.
 

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