Help !! Hot water heater

[sbb]

I have a FF189FDS. I purchased it in March of 2010. I had it winterized by my dealer in November. We had a really bad winter. I'm scheduled to go out in a week and although I previously got all the cold water in working order..I had to hold off on hot until now. When I opened the little outside door, the anode was laying across the bottom. (it had been removed for the winter) No problem, I called dealer he said to get a 1 1/16th deep socket thingy and screw it back in. It is totally rusted on both parts and after trying more than enough times, the anode just won't grab the tread and screw in. What can I do short of driving almost three hours just to get my hot water going? I fear the unit might have to be replaced unless hopefully I'm missing something. Please, I appreciate ANY help as soon as possible. I'm just so frustrated that something that seemed easy to do has become an impossible task. Thanks in advance to all.

 

[wandering women]

We also had difficulty putting the anode rod back in the first weekend we were out. Put some teflon plumbers tape on the threads. Good luck!

 

[webslave]

You've learned one of two good reasons not to leave the anode over the winter The other good reason is mice love to make a home in an open water heater...last thing you want, for sure!

Easy fix; you'll need a can of PB Blaster (auto part store or hardware store), a sacrificial toothbrush (old one on hand or drug store, etc.) and a battery terminal cleaning brush (auto parts store).

Spray PB Blaster liberally on the anode threads and set aside, spray PB Blaster on toothbrush and use toothbrush to liberally coat the threads on the water tank. Let both sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Spray the round wire brush end of the battery terminal cleaning with PB Blaster and scrub the anode threads until clean. Do the same with the threads on the water tank. Take paper towels and get as much of the PB Blaster of the threads as possible. Wrap the anode threads with a couple of turns of teflon thread sealing tape and it should then start threading into the tank (use the 1 1/16 socket once you've got it started by hand to seat the anode. You'll want to start it by hand to make sure the threads aren't cross threaded; if you force cross thread it with the socket and ruin the threads you'll be in deep doo-doo

Next time, after doing the winterizing process, make sure the anode is put back in for the storage season... 8)

 

[MyFrontier]

You've learned one of two good reasons not to leave the anode over the winter The other good reason is mice love to make a home in an open water heater...last thing you want, for sure!

Easy fix; you'll need a can of PB Blaster (auto part store or hardware store), a sacrificial toothbrush (old one on hand or drug store, etc.) and a battery terminal cleaning brush (auto parts store).

Spray PB Blaster liberally on the anode threads and set aside, spray PB Blaster on toothbrush and use toothbrush to liberally coat the threads on the water tank. Let both sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Spray the round wire brush end of the battery terminal cleaning with PB Blaster and scrub the anode threads until clean. Do the same with the threads on the water tank. Take paper towels and get as much of the PB Blaster of the threads as possible. Wrap the anode threads with a couple of turns of teflon thread sealing tape and it should then start threading into the tank (use the 1 1/16 socket once you've got it started by hand to seat the anode. You'll want to start it by hand to make sure the threads aren't cross threaded; if you force cross thread it with the socket and ruin the threads you'll be in deep doo-doo

Next time, after doing the winterizing process, make sure the anode is put back in for the storage season... 8)

X2

 

[JeepGuy-FUN]

Also could try just getting a new anode, there not expensive and will have clean threads on it.

 

[sbb]

Where is Hot Water By Pass Valve?

Thank you all, I have followed all advice and now have anode screwed in all but 1/2". Is that enough? I plan to order a new one. I had my RV winterized at dealer and removing anode was part of winterizing. I certainly don't want a mouse issue, so will leave anode in next winter.

New frustration... after finding out the hard way the bottom drain of the fresh tank in under the middle of trailer, I got my tank filled. I turned the three valves but someplace is a hot water by-pass valve.. Can someone please tell me where that is? I can't locate it and my hot water tank has no water in it. I go out next weekend and want to be ready.

I have instalation sheet for hot water heater, and my cruizer manual, but no photos or hints where that valve is. I have built my muscles holding up the mattress with one hand while I check tank and the red piping.

I really appreciate this forum as I struggle to get myself going..a big learning curve for me.

 

[webslave]

The anode doesn't screw all the way in (does not seat all the threads) and should only be put in fairly snuggly...the teflon tape will take care of the sealing. Needs to come out yearly for inspection and draining the tank (winterization), but, should be put back in as soon as inspection and winterizing is complete. You probably don't need a new anode...they last a good long while, despite how lousy they may look. They get pitted and corroded and rather ratty looking - that means they are doing their job. Don't get a new one based on looks alone. Usually the area next to the nut gets the most wear...when it gets down to about 1/4" thick there, then is the time to replace.

The bypass system is installed right at the tank...where the hoses enter. You should have a lower hose with valve and an upper hose with valve and short piece of hose, with valve, connecting the upper and lower hoses just as they enter/exit the tank. The valves on the two enter/exit hoses should be have their "handles" parallel to their hose (open) and the short bypass hose should have its handle perpendicular (closed) to the short piece (bypass) of hose that it is in. Parallel (aligned with) to hose = open, Perpendicular (crossing pipe) = closed. When the upper and lower hoses are open and the short connector hose (bypass) is closed, water will be forced into the tank. When the upper and lower hoses are closed (valves perpendicular) and the short connector (bypass) hose is parallel (open) the water bypasses the tank by going through the short hose as opposed to going through the tank; that keeps you from filling the tank with antifreeze when winterizing, if that is your winterizing method (antifreeze). I use air as opposed to pumping antifreeze through the lines, but, that is an "alternate" method of winterizing, antifreeze use being the most widely used method.

You might also want to check the winterizing hose, located at the water pump, to make sure that is closed. At the water pump, on the inlet side, you'll find another valve connected to a short piece of hose that is just "hanging around". That hose is what you use to pump the antifreeze through your plumbing. If that valve is "open" (parallel") to the short, open piece of tubing (it goes into the bottle of antifreeze) then your pump will suck air as opposed to pulling water from your tank. A lot of places that winterize TTs get lazy and don't close that valve when done pumping the antifreeze through the pipes.

Hope this helps

 

[sbb]

Fabulous, thank you..I'm getting closer to saving myself a long trip on Wednesday. I found out today the tank has water in it. (facing it closely, I unscrewed the anode and got quite a shower as the water spewed out.)

Now I know the following..
-Anode ok and in place
- water is in the hot water tank
- pump works, BUT when hot water facet is open.. nothing comes out, the pump makes a different sound than the usual "pump" sound, but no aire, anti freeze or water comes out. I quickly turn the pump off.

The next possible sticky wicket is...the top valve black handle thingy popped off when I turned it the 1/4 turn to "open" the line. I was able to pop the black thingy back on, but I wonder if the valve is really turned correctly inside the fitting.

When I get home from work.. my first step is to check valve by pump..next up might be the white flag of surrender and long trip to dealer. It just frustrates me that I can't do something that seems so simple! All the emails have been very helpful, thank you.

 

[sbb]

Rushed home from work, held up mattress with one arm and head, unscrewed the board and hoped that valve was incorrect...nope it was ok, I'm back to thinking something is wrong inside pipe and valve didnt really turn. off to dealer I go> I'll let you know what happens.

 

[alstude]

Water heater fix

You can also use "navel Jelly" which is less toxic and will do much the same thing in removing rust from the threads.

 

[dlhilliard]

Assuming I've followed this thread correctly, always a risky assumption, it sounds like the winterizing valve near the water pump is open. As Webslave has noted, this is common when the dealer has winterized a trailer. To check, place the end of the "dangeling" hose in a small container of fresh water. turn on the water pump. If the pump sucks water from the container, then it's incorrectly open. Close the valve and retry. By the way, you mention lifting the mattress to access the pump. I take out the drawer ( I hope I remember correctly that you have a FF-189) and lean into the opening. I'm not small, especially around the middle, and still have room to insert shoulders and reach all the valves.