Hot water line valve broke

[roy-FUN]

I'm about fed up with this American made pos! Plastic cheesy brass valves that break if looked at hard. Went to de winterize this thing for a trip this coming weekend. As usual I can't go on a trip without first making repairs on a two year old hauler, ridiculous! The plastic valve arm just spins, valve is in closed position so no hot water. Couldn't get the valve off the line and I'm just not sure its possible due to it being a custom in the factory build. I kept twisting the valve lever and it finally just came off with the brass key that's suppose to open the crappy valve. SO I just used a flat head screw driver to open valve but of course with out the key piece with oring in the hole it leaks water ever so slowly. Well being the shade tree guy and in a tight I sourced a piece of small rubber hose and split it, wrapped it around the brass valve hole and then put a hose clamp around the setup and tightened it down. No leak as of now. Doubt it will as its a good a seal as that rinky dink oring cruiser used. Now moving on how does one go about replacing this inline valve? I'm not carrying it in to the dealer for this they are idiots won't do any good even with my extended warranty. I'm sure it can be fixed cheaper than my $75 deductible and $100 in gas to transport it there and back. Like I said its the hot water line valve the one you close when winterizing so no anti freeze goes in the hot water tank. Water lines have the aluminum end look and the valve just spins on them.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Securityman]

I feel your pain Roy , I have another problem every time I look at it wrong !! I have fixed so much on this trailer it's unreal 2 years here too . But about your water line , I think the pipe Is pex pipe so you can get a pex valve at lowes and may have to buy a cripper tool to compress the new rings you buy and get a connector and a small piece of pex 1/2 water line because it will be short once you cut out the valve . Also check you wheel wells the caulk where it meets the fiberglass wall outside and re caulk it good and the right way , if not you will be leaking water in when it rains and runs down the wall into the trailer, last thing I just fixed a week ago .

 

[roy-FUN]

Security I've already had the wheel well leak. Caulked it and have been monitoring it. The water came in under bathroom sink on top of the inner metal fender. Wasn't bad just a puddle. Sorry to hear your misery is like mine but I was beginning to think mine was the only pos they built that year. Guess not haha.

Anyway back to the water line yes I researched it and it appears to be pex lines. I am just unsure how to get the existing fittings loose. I can't cut a section out for valve replacement since cruiser didn't leave any excess. See pic below


As you can see my shade tree repair but its holding fine. I want to replace the line from where it screws into tank back to the tee. If I could figure out how to pop loose the fitting on the Tee I could buy some new line, a valve, new 90 elbow, new fittings and just redo that section back to tank. Probably could even reuse 90 elbow and screw on fitting that goes on the tank if I could get those clamps undone. Crimping tool and cutting tool will cost the majority of this project.

Another pic of the piping, sorry about the blury pics stoopid iPhone is a terrible camera.



And btw isn't that a fine mess of a job done by cruiser? Total rats nest in and around the water tank. I couldn't have done worse looking work if I had tried. Are kids building these things??

 

[roy-FUN]

Email reply from cruiser, "any qualified plumber can repair this". Hello genius I'm not a plumber! I price this out, tools and materials equal at a minimum $148. Tools being 75% of the cost. Sad part is that there are two more of these crappy valves on this thing that have the same failure potential. In short I've been ripped off on this thing once and it won't happen again. I am literally rebuilding this toy hauler that cruiser threw together.

 

[jerkar]

Check ebay RV water heater bypass. Guy has them all made up for 29.00

 

[roy-FUN]

I went by lowes at lunch and picked up a new valve (way better than the cruiser elcheapo) along with a bag of clamps.

My plan is to use a dremel with cutting wheel to remove the existing unknown type aluminum clamps off at where the broken valve attaches to the PEX lines. Then insert my new valve and clamp it down. Sounds so simple when in reality it's probably going to mean another trip to lowes for new PEX lines. Wish cruiser had used a standard clamp and not these cup looking clamps which appear harder to remove.

Edit: new plan, texted a plumber friend to see if he would loan me a tool or two. He asked me what the problem was, told him and sent him a pic. He said go on the trip this weekend and he would swing by my house Monday and repair it for me. Told me it wasn't much to it. So that's hopefully the end of this ordeal and on to the next problem(s) with this thing.

 

[Securityman]

Sounds good Roy , glad you got a plumber to help you out so you don't have to buy all the tools to fix this. Yea I forgot there is no length on those pipes so you almost have to replace that whole section of piping , but at least you will have some quality parts now in that trailer , I guess I will stay on the look out for my to break soon . Have you look at your roof at all ? I have something like screws trying to break threw the rubber roof already right at the garage section meets the bathroom section of the trailer.

 

[roy-FUN]

Sounds good Roy , glad you got a plumber to help you out so you don't have to buy all the tools to fix this. Yea I forgot there is no length on those pipes so you almost have to replace that whole section of piping , but at least you will have some quality parts now in that trailer , I guess I will stay on the look out for my to break soon . Have you look at your roof at all ? I have something like screws trying to break threw the rubber roof already right at the garage section meets the bathroom section of the trailer.

 

[roy-FUN]

Sounds good Roy , glad you got a plumber to help you out so you don't have to buy all the tools to fix this. Yea I forgot there is no length on those pipes so you almost have to replace that whole section of piping , but at least you will have some quality parts now in that trailer , I guess I will stay on the look out for my to break soon . Have you look at your roof at all ? I have something like screws trying to break threw the rubber roof already right at the garage section meets the bathroom section of the trailer.

I have not noticed any screws in that area but its had a leak at the front right corner where front fiberglass cap wraps over to meet roof. Cruiser conveniently left a place there for water to puddle. Piss poor workmanship again.

Had a guy this past weekend approached at the racetrack inquiring about the cruise brand. I told him to run and run fast but to be fair every brand of RV is junk IMO.

Btw my electric water heater qui working this weekend so I guess the element has broke. Never used it with out water in it either. Just another example of less than superior components used.

 

[clarkgriswold]

Exact problem as mine!

I just experienced the exact same thing while trying to de-winterize my TT. The valve to the 'hot' side of water heater wouldn't turn the valve. I removed the handle and even turned the stem directly. No luck. So it's off to Lowes to remake a section of the bypass.

I agree..... terrible workmanship. And on top that, they couldn't even leave longer sections of pipe so a person could at least cut the pipe and replace a section!

 

[Dakota 1120]

For those doing plumbing repairs on PEX pipe ~ if you don't want to spend the $$ to buy the tools, check with your local rental shop. YOU can rent the crimping tool pretty cheap.

 

[webslave]

Another "quick fix" is the SharkBite brand of fittings. Designed primarily for Pex, but, can be used on any type of pipe; PVC, CPVC and copper. I carry, in my "emergency repair kit", two of the straight connectors and two of the right angle connectors and a straigh valve connector. They are a press fit and don't leak...I've never had one leak and in my re-plumbing of the old farm house, I've used them exclusively on 3/4" and 1/2" lines, both, CPVC pipe and Pex. Good stuff. Get the removal tool and they are even removeable and reusable.

 

[Dakota 1120]

To date, I have NOT experienced any plumbing problems with my 2012 toy hauler. And zero major problems of any aspect.

It has been below freezing most nights since I got it out of winter storage so have NOT flushed out the antifreeze and sanitized the water system yet...and it snowed last night too.

Should a leak ever be evident, the information presented by webslave about the SharkBite fittings sound great. I will have to check my local plumbing suppliers to see if they have them in stock should a need ever arise.

Thanks


UPDATE: There are no suppliers of 'snakebite' fittings in my area. However, the local Menards (like Home Depot) does carry WATTS QUICK CONNECT fittings. They are simple to install OR remove.

Here is a quick demonstration video:

 

[LINERGUY]

Valve handle came off

Happened to me after spring start up, you can see repair.

1st pic, old valves cut out.

2nd pic, is new accessible valve assembly on street side under bed

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LINERGUY

 

[clarkgriswold]

Re: Valve handle came off

Happened to me after spring start up, you can see repair.

1st pic, old valves cut out.

2nd pic, is new accessible valve assembly on street side under bed

[/url]

LINERGUY

Did you use hose clamps or PEX 'bands' on the new install? If you used PEX bands did you buy the tool or rent it? I just bought all new fitting for mine but I'm using the plastic 'slip on' type fittings for PEX....expensive!

Anyone had experience with using regular hose clamps with PEX? :

 

[roy-FUN]

Nice work! I used that same type replacement valve. I have not replaced all the others yet.

 

[jerkar]

Thinking about the amount of problems that everyone is having with these valves. Question, when you winterize, do you drain the water from these lines by the low point drains, before turning the valves off?
If the valves are turned off before the lines are drained, Water could be trapped between the valve and the hot water check valves, causing this water to freeze, and brake the valve. Just a thought. Jerry

 

[Kafn8td]

That's a good question Jerry. What's the point of turning them off? The antifreeze isn't going to hurt the HW tank.

 

[LINERGUY]

I used the PEX "bands" and bought the tool, about $20. I'll use it in the house to so I figured it was worth the investment.

I think Jerry's thought is correct, but also I think the water heater has a check valve in the hot water output line built right in the output fitting, has anyone else noticed this?
The antifreeze can't get back into the tank from the hot water line when winterizing.

 

[jerkar]

Yes, there also is a check valve located on the cold water side also. So if both ball valves are turned off without draining the water from the back side, they will freeze.
I was reading a post on a different forum, and it told on the older trailers, that a check valve on the hot and cold side of the water heater were never used. Don"t ever remember seeing check valves on my home hot water heater. So I removed both check valves on my TT water heater So far no problems. My thinking is when you turn off both ball valves off and drain the water heater all water is removed from the back side of the ball valves
Jerry