I'm going to pull a 214wsd with a 4 cylinder

K.C.-FUN

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So I was hoping someone could tell me what size ball this trailer accepts. GVWR is a hair over 6100lbs and I currently gave a 2" good for 7500, but I gave no idea what OEM put on the front of the trailer.
 
So I was hoping someone could tell me what size ball this trailer accepts. GVWR is a hair over 6100lbs and I currently gave a 2" good for 7500, but I gave no idea what OEM put on the front of the trailer.

Before you worry about the type of ball you need, I'm more interested in what you are pulling it with. You mentioned a 4 cylinder TV which simply does not have the power to tow a 21 foot, 6000 pound trailer, unless it is a diesel.
 
Before you worry about the type of ball you need, I'm more interested in what you are pulling it with. You mentioned a 4 cylinder TV which simply does not have the power to tow a 21 foot, 6000 pound trailer, unless it is a diesel.
Its diesel 369ft/lbs!, rated for 7600lbs. I'm picking up a Weight Distribution Hitch in the morning, just want to know if my ball is the right size.
 
I have a 2015 214WSD and the hitch requires a 2 5/16" Ball. You have to use a ball that is the correct size for the hitch. The hitch is sized for the correct ball to use for the trailer weight. A 2" ball cannot be used on a hitch made for a 2 5/16 ball.
 
Thanks for the answer, ChasWray. I'll pick up the larger ball in the morning, if I showed up with a 2" and saw it took a 2-5/16 there is NO way I'd try that. I'm already in gray area pilling the 21ft TT with a "light" duty truck.
 
The 2 5/16" ball must also have the correct diameter/length threaded shank to fit the hole it goes into....but I'm sure you know that.
 
The 2 5/16" ball must also have the correct diameter/length threaded shank to fit the hole it goes into....but I'm sure you know that.
Im aware but I always appreciate the back up. I'm off today to try and torque a nut 450ft/lbs. Wish me luck!
 
Im aware but I always appreciate the back up. I'm off today to try and torque a nut 450ft/lbs. Wish me luck!

Finding a torque wrench that goes to 450 ft/lb isn't easy! The dealer we purchased from (over 300 miles away) installed mine and torqued it but after several years, time to re-torque/check so still tight.

Finally found one at a construction/farm equipment dealership ~ knew a fellow that worked there and he brought it over one evening to re-torque the ball. Well, the wrench is about 4 or 5 feet long, he pulled on it hard, moved the nut a smiggen but never got to 450 f t/lb on the dial. We concluded the torque wrench was seriously out of calibration as he is a well built, strong person & had his feet braced against a building while pulling on the handle.

I had/provided the special thin wall socket to fit the Equalizer hitch head.

When I was in the market for a toy hauler, the only local RV dealer (not a Cruiser dealership) did not even return calls about purchasing a camper so refuse to contact them for anything.

I've looked into getting a torque multiplier ... less expensive then a torque wrench that goes to 450 ft/lb. ~ here: Torque Multiplier 5X , 1/2" in and out, w/o torque Wrench - Ratchet Helper | eBay
 
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Went to a diesel mechanic, had to pay $10. It was worth it, the little truck did awesome and did 16mpg! It's around 30mpg unladen. And the trailerbrakes are so good. The exhaust brake never activated.
 

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Nice combo. What brand of truck is that? Is it a Chevy Colorado? It really doesn't look small at all.
 
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So I was hoping someone could tell me what size ball this trailer accepts. GVWR is a hair over 6100lbs and I currently gave a 2" good for 7500, but I gave no idea what OEM put on the front of the trailer.
Trailer ball size, while important, is but a small (and relatively inexpensive) part of the overall equation.

What really needs to be known is the towing capacity of your truck. What are your truck specifics? Make, model, year, trim package, etc. Diesel alone doesn't make it "haul anything"! VW puts a Diesel motor in the "new" bug, but that doesn't mean it can pull a 6000# TT.

The important numbers are:

The truck's GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) which is the max it can weigh,
The truck's GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) which is the max that a truck and it's total load can weigh.

Most mfgrs report the GVWR and the GCWR. The GVWR can generally be found on a data plate of some sort attached to the truck's door or door frame. The GCWR can be variable based on how a truck is equipped.

The truck's Payload and towing capacity are also important.
Capacities can be calculated from mfgr supplied data.

Payload capacity = GVWR - curb weight - fuel weight - passenger weight.
Towing capacity = GCWR - the truck's GVWR.

One must always keep in mind that a trailer's tongue weight (10-15% of the trailer's actual weight) must be considered part of the payload (since it is carried by the truck).

Legally, the vehicle weight ratings and the combined weight rating cannot be exceeded. In reality, they many times are but that doesn't make it right. It can be dangerous and destructive to vehicles.

Bottom line, determine your truck's ratings and capacities. Then calculate the maximum trailer that you can tow. If you can't do the math yourself, there are plenty of "towing calculators" out there.

RipVan
 
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Eww, not a Honda nor could one safely pull a TT this size. My truck is a 2016 GMC Canyon 2.8L Duramax turbo diesel. Rated for 7600lbs towing. The 2wd gets an extra 100lbs. It comes with an exhaust brake and trailer brake controller standard. So far Ive pulled the TT over 1,000 miles and its been great!
 
Just checked out that torque multiplier. I'll have to get one of these. Thats an awesome find, thanks for sharing.
 
So I was hoping someone could tell me what size ball this trailer accepts. GVWR is a hair over 6100lbs and I currently gave a 2" good for 7500, but I gave no idea what OEM put on the front of the trailer.


The size ball required is stamped on the trailer coupler .. the trailer coupler is the part of the trailer hitch that goes over the ball.

Oh, that has been said already.
 
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.....Bottom line, determine your truck's ratings and capacities. Then calculate the maximum trailer that you can tow. If you can't do the math yourself, there are plenty of "towing calculators" out there.

Lots of great info/advice.

I'd add my golden rule of towing. Never go beyond about 75% of your vehicles rated towing max.

I've learned the hard way pulling close to the listed limits, wearing out brakes, suspensions, transmissions, etc before I learned to follow this rule.
My GMC p/u is rated to pull 9200lbs, my trailer is 3800 dry, maybe 5000 +/- in real life travel, and it pulls as if nothing is there most of the time.
(Equalizer weight distributing hitch playing a part in that too!)
 
I adjusted my hitch and the bolts that attach head to shank called for 300 ft/lbs. Did not have a torque wrench that would do it. I went to Harbor Freight and purchased a 2ft. breaker bar.
I weigh 180lbs so I stood on the breaker bar. That thing is never coming loose.
 
I adjusted my hitch and the bolts that attach head to shank called for 300 ft/lbs. Did not have a torque wrench that would do it. I went to Harbor Freight and purchased a 2ft. breaker bar.
I weigh 180lbs so I stood on the breaker bar. That thing is never coming loose.

:D
I have a two foot breaker bar also. When I tighten a trailer ball I insert the hitch into the receiver sideways so I can step down on the bar to tighten. At 255 lbs I figure it's tight when the nut stops moving.:cool:
 

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