Newby questions on XT276

[Dakota 1120]

I'd like to know acouple things if anyone can please help this newby:

Where is and how do you use the "black water flush" on the 276?

Do you leave the anode rod in the water heater all the time?

Is there a 'by pass' valve and where is it located?

Thanks for your assistance.

 

[LJAZ]

I can't answer question #1, but for #2 - yes, you should leave the anode in all of the time. I assume for #3 you're referring to the bypass valve for winterizing. If so yes there is one, but it's in a different location on each model so I haven't a clue where it's located on your 276. On my 210 its located under a panel in the outside storage locker closest to the water heater.

I'm sure someone with more knowledge than me will chime in.

 

[roy-FUN]

Yes I leave mine in.

Black water flush must only be used with empty valve in open position or bad things could come up the toilet into camper. You connect a water hose to the outside port on the camper, it has a label on it and it's located right past the slide and directly up from the waste valve port.

The bypass valve is under the front bed by the water pump. You should have a clear tube hose attached to it. The valves for water tank bypass are located on the two lines just follow the lines from tank you will see them.

The XT276 is nice we picked ours up Dec 26 of last year. First trip in it is in two weeks. It's had a few minor issues so far mostly manufacturing over sights I've fixed myself. Another tricky thing is to keep the battery charged the battery disconnect button must be pulled out when attached to shore power.

 

[Dakota 1120]

Ok, I put the anode rod back in the water heater and will leave it there except to drain it this fall before I winterize the unit and then put it back in.

As for the black water flush, I see where the hose has to be connected for the flush. Thanks for the point about having the black water tank dump open so pressure doesn't built up and blow it out the toilet. That would be bad, very bad :!:

I'll have to lift out the mattress & board to find the water pump and by pass valve. Will check that out tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help ~ most appreciated :!: :!: :!:

 

[roy-FUN]

Ok, I put the anode rod back in the water heater and will leave it there except to drain it this fall before I winterize the unit and then put it back in.

As for the black water flush, I see where the hose has to be connected for the flush. Thanks for the point about having the black water tank dump open so pressure doesn't built up and blow it out the toilet. That would be bad, very bad :!:

I'll have to lift out the mattress & board to find the water pump and by pass valve. Will check that out tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help ~ most appreciated :!: :!: :!:

The mattress will just lift up with the board that is attached to a stabilizer. It's a good storage area under the bed. Very flimsy wall separating the storage area and pump\water tank.

 

[Dakota 1120]

I checked it out. To the left of the under bed storage area, had to remove the plywood cover that was screwed down. Some lame brain at the factory put a screw in near the outside wall ~ no framing for it to go into and missed the water inlet line by a fraction of an inch. The screw served no purpose so removed it.

Wow, some horrible mess of wires and hoses by the water heater and pump!! They would never graduate from electrical or plumbing journeyman training with that helter skelter mess.

Yes, I see the clear hose off the line near the water pump. It still had some antifreeze in it from the factory. Now I will have to figure out which valves to open/close etc. when it comes time to winterize the unit.

After checking the water heater/pump area out ... finally made up the bed. That is a PITA project. I didn't like the factory hard mattress so got a 4" memory foam topper for it. Will have to try it out and see how it sleeps. Hopefully reasonably good as I love my sleep number bed in the house.

It would have been nice if the factory had put an access door at the foot of the bed to access the front storage area that is now only accessable from the exterior. It's a long reach into there from the outside door when something is all the way in. I may do a modification and put in an interior access doorway.

Anyone with the procedure to winterize would be appreciated. I've winterized alot of mobile homes but this is a bit different.

Best to all.

 

[Dakota 1120]

Oops, a quick search on the net and found there are alot of videos on YouTube on how to winterize a travel trailer like this one.

Not that complicated either.

 

[roy-FUN]

The valve nearest the pump and clear hose is the siphon hose/valve. The other two valves are located on the red and blue water lines. Make sure they are in the closed position when purging the antifreeze from system you do not want antifreeze inside the hot water tank during this procedure. I get a 1 galling bucket and sit it near the divider wall with siphon hose in it. May have to sit the bucket on something as my clear hose was not very long. turn on pump and go to opening each sink outlet till it runs clear. Keep bucket topped off. That's all it is too it.

I agree the mess under there is uncalled for. I suspect cruiser rv is using very unskilled folks at a very low pay to produce these haulers and even their so called QC folks are not any better qualified and let things go. America has no pride is their work anymore, they just want a paycheck. Sad really as it does not take much more effort to do a job right. I roll my eyes at the sight of this crap everytime I enter the hauler. If I was not such a fixer upper I'd a lost my mind by now on this thing.