We have 2 85w Polycrystalline panels and a MorningStar ProStar PS-30M Solar Panel Charge Controller that we can put up or leave on ground depending on the location. We can keep our 2 6v Trojans charged even when partially shaded.
Took us a few trips to get it figured out. We purchased our 210 with 2 12v batteries and couldn't keep the fridge running more than 24 hours without boosting the batteries with the generator. We were sure we had a massive power leak. We discovered some bad wiring at the converter panel and thought we found it, but continued to have trouble keeping up. We even put a switch on the Co2/gas detector. Over the winter we studied batteries and discovered the batteries the dealer sold us were the worst and had the lowest amp hours of any. We had no amp storage!
We purchased 2 Trojan T125 6v batteries and increased our amps by over 400%. (from 50 amp hrs to 240) and we purchased the solar panels on ebay. We didn’t want to pierce the roof, so we outfitted them with teflon furniture feet from Home Depot. This allows us to place them anywhere on the roof and they slide right across the roof with minimal friction. They sit real close to the roof so wind has yet to be a problem, and we have seen some wind! We can also use them on the ground. We purchased a 30 amp controller because the cost difference between the 15 amp and 30 was negligible and we thought if we needed more solar we would not have to change the controller. Started with a Steca.. but replaced it this year with a REAL controller from MorningStar. (That’s another story) We have a collapsible ladder and find it only takes about 10 minutes to get the panels up and running.
The 85w panels are rated at 4.86 amps. We get about 7amps in the full sun and the volt meter shows around 14.2 volts. It’s just like putting the batteries on a charger. The controller manages the charge and stops charging when the batteries are at full charge. We used the standard solar connectors to make all the cable connections and 8guage wire. Everything is available on ebay and it was very easy to setup.
We mounted the charge controller in a plastic tool box and attached a cheap hose holder to hang it over the tongue near the battery box. All the wires can be rolled up into this box for storage. We built a portable box for the panels that we carry in the truck bed and lined it with waffle foam. Everything is portable.
It’s been 3 years now, and we only use the generator to run the microwave and the toaster. (Have to have some luxury even when dry camping.) We can be out 10 days and not need to run the generator to charge the batteries ever. I recommend you get replace EVERY bulb with LEDS (no more battry lanterns), replace your batteries with good 6volts and install a permanent volt meter. And get a battery voltage chart so you can watch your available volts. We put a small volt meter right next to the trailer control panel and put a switch on that too!
Get 2 100w panels minimum, or more if you spend a lot of time in cloudier weather. Look for the most efficient panels you can afford and let the physical size be your watt control. (The bigger the panel, the more watts per panel.) But if you get too much solar, you will just waste most of the energy. If you are going to mount them, you have to be sure they will fit on the roof alongside all the other stuff up there. Get a name brand controller at least twice the max combined amps of your panels. The Steca was half the price, but we didn’t get half of the performance and information from it to be able to best understand the power we were generating and could not run anything off the load side to use the excess energy that was just wasted.
Good Luck!!
Mac & d