Swapping out wheel

[tntrac]

Good morning. I want to swap my wheel/tire.

How would I lift the trailer off the ground? Should I use the jacks that are built within the trailer for leveling to lift the trailer off the ground? Do I use a car jack and lift it up at the axle location (the U bolts located)?

TIA,
tntrac

 

[LJAZ]

Don't use the stabilizer jacks!! They are designed to stabilize the trailer only. They aren't strong enough to lift - or even to level - the trailer. They will surely break if you try.

You can use a floor jack (of sufficient capacilty) on the frame rail as close to the axles as possible. Typically that will require a fair amount of cribbing due to the height of the frame. Of course all of the safety precautions apply - wheel chocks, etc.

 

[webslave]

LJAZ is correct... Never, ever use your stabilizer jacks for lifting the trailer's wheels off the ground. The jacks could probably do it, but, your trailer's frame may never forgive you I saw the results one time of what may happen if you do...the guy's door wouldn't open because the frame got tweaked. He finally managed to pry the door open, but, then couldn't close it. He wasn't a happy camper. I think he used a whole roll of duct tape to close the door for the trip home...

As mentioned, you can lift from the frame at the wheels, but, requires a lot of cribbing that can get wiggly if not done properly. You can also lift from the shackle area as you mentioned. It isn't recommended as if you do it improperly you can deform/damage the axle, but, I've done it for years that way; you want to make sure that you distribute the weight on the shackles and not a small area of the axle. On most shackle assemblies, there is enough coverage and bracing provided by the shackle themselves to prevent damage to the axle (dual curved reinforcement bands provided by the u-bolts and shackle bracket) since you aren't going to lift any higher than an inch or so, just enough for ground clearance. Another option, on tandem axle trailers is to hook up and drive the trailer up onto a stepped set of blocks (I've used my Lynx levelers). If you only use the blocks under the tire you don't want to remove, the other axle will be hanging in the air to allow the wheel to be removed. Similar to the Trailer Aid device (but you are using leveling blocks that you may already have):

Trailer Aid

Just some other options that will work...

 

[tntrac]

I have the T-139 (single axle). You guys are making me nervous . I work on cars all the time.

I better move the trailer far off from the house since its about 2 feet away and the tire to be replaced is on the side of the house.

 

[webslave]

Nothing to be nervous about.

Jack at the spring attachment at the axle. Block the other side's wheel front and back of tire firmly and you should be fine. The 139 isn't that heavy...not much different than jacking up a utility trailer Just make sure that you don't use a bottle jack with the small screw extension...you want to spread the contact point so that you don't dent the axle (not likely) or have it slip off (more likely). Since you don't have multiple tires down, like a car would, the tendancy for the trailer to rotate around the single tire on the other side is greater. It would be safest if you could hook your tow vehicle up and then the trailer would be perfectly anchored and rock steady.

 

[tntrac]

Before I go breaking the trailer, I marked the spot where I will placing the floor jack. Hopefully, I can place a wood block between the bolts so I won't damage them. I will also put a few jack stands around the supporting frame.

Please verify.

I will hitch to the truck since I will still need to test the brake controller this weekend

 

[webslave]

You should be fine... While a lot of places will tell you it isn't a good idea to jack at that point, I've always done it. The trailer's weight is supported by that area and you've got the reinforcing plate to distribute the weight. With the trailer hooked to the truck, to keep the rotational forces in check, it should be rock stable for you.

 

[brackenlip]

I too have seen that it's not recommended to jack under the axle for fear of collapsing the axle tube. I made a "cradle" out of wood, that supports the tube and the u-bolts so that the load is spread.
This is probably a sign of a guy with too much time on his hands, but anyway, here's what it looks like.

 

[tntrac]

Gmw,

Great work. I noticed the leafs on your trailer is above the tube and mine is opposite.

 

[brackenlip]

Gmw,

Great work. I noticed the leafs on your trailer is above the tube and mine is opposite.

Thanks.
I should have noticed that from your picture that your axle is flipped compared to mine.

Heck, if mine were like yours I'd probably make a block of wood with four holes in it so the threaded parts of the hanger u-bolts would go into the holes.....and thus support the plate nice and evenly.
But then, I probably get a little carried away with silly little details !

 

[tntrac]

I like your idea about the holes. What torque is for the lugs? I am thinking 80lbs. torque

 

[brackenlip]

Lippert manual states 90-120 ft-lbs wheel torque for 1/2" studs.

page 16 of the manual:

http://www.lci1.com/images/Flyers/Owners_Manuals/Axles/om-trailer-axle-web.pdf