Trailer Leveling

Dawnie

Dawnie

Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Posts
28
Location
Simcoe, Ontario, Canada
Hi, My RV has stabilizers, not levelers and at times (usually all the time) one side of RV is lower than the other. Not by much but enough that doors inside either swing open or shut and won't stay put.

Been looking around at ways to fix that. Do you think a 4 ton hydraulic bottle jack would do the trick to aid in leveling? Amazon has one for $26.13.

Any other options I should consider?

Thanks! :D
 
Standard procedure

Have at least 1 stick on leveler on the side of camper and 1 in the front to check level quickly

You put a 2X6 or 2 under wheels on low side (maybe have a 1X6 also to fine tune)
OR
Buy some interlocking level Blocks.
 
Stick on levels work great, but they can get bumped (trick is you have to get your trailer 100% level using something else before you attach them!)

We also keep a couple of lengths of 2x6 and use them quite often on one side to get level on poorly made sites. Sometimes, the second length of wood gets used under just one wheel to make the difference.

A 2x6, about one foot longer at both ends than the distance of both wheels seems to be enough to allow forgiveness for not being exact when driving/backing up on them.

All of this of course only helps with side to side leveling. Front to back is ALWAYS done simply using the front jack on your trailer. (thank goodness for my electric one with a remote!)

Also very helpful are the free leveling Apps you can put on your phone, and we use it to double check everything at several points before final set up. The location I find most helpful is on the counter next to the kitchen sink, and the centre of the main area floor for level, or we make make final adjustments.

But are right, don't use the stabalizers for leveling. Some people also extend any slide-outs before leveling, although my experiments say my slide-out doesn't change anything.

Personally, any kind of hydraulic lift would just bend your frame (eventually) and only cause you problems down the road.
 
The stabilizer jacks on the 4 corners are JUST TO STABILIZE the trailer .... NOT for leveling!!

NEVER use them to level the trailer. Simply use wood (2x6's or 1x6's about 3 - 4 foot long) or the plastic leveling pads under the wheels.

Read this: RV Leveling Blocks - Read This Before Buying

In the video, he only raises one tire with a ramp type block. I prefer to have the weight on both tires so use a 2x6 under both tires.

Here is another:
 
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Hi all and thanks for your input.

Just to be clear, I do use a level and can, of course, level the trailer front to back with the tongue jack.

I do not use the 4 corner stabilizers as levelers ever.

I have used wood under the wheels on the low side, however, as I am usually alone when camping, sometimes when I try to drive wheels on the wood the tire just pushes it out of the way, instead of driving up onto it. (when I have someone with me, this is not a problem because I simply get them to hold it in place till I get the tire on it.

I was just thinking that maybe a bottle jack, used dead centre on whatever side is lower and using a piece of 2x4 or something to spread the weight over a larger area of frame,(and wood under the jack as well of course, so it doesn't sink into the ground) and jack up a couple inches to level side to side would work.

Would that really bend the frame?
 
I would not jack on the frame.

Example, when removing a wheel/tire, I only place the hydraulic jack under the plate that helps secure the leaf spring to the axle for lifting the wheel/tire off the ground....never on the frame that can bend/twist sideways or buckle.

Although I haven't used the plastic pads (only wood), apparently they are designed not to slide when backing on them.
 
Hi Dawnie,
Welcome to the Forum if not already welcomed... :)

You have been informed correctly on the leveling of your trailer... I did a bunch of work on the garage and just cut up left-over 2x6's, 1x6 plywood for leveling blocks. Just cut about a 60 degree bevel on both ends to assist driving on. I cut lengths in three different lengths the one on the bottom is about six inches longer than the second board and the same with the second in relation with the third. Easy-Peasy, make enough to raise the trailer to level and like Eagle, I use the stick-on levels and carry a little level in case one of the stick-on's fall off... This was cheap and took about 10 minutes to cut a half dozen boards... Hey Dawnie, to help keep them from sliding, just glue/or stick a couple pieces of of coarse sandpaper to the bottom of the upper boards... :)

Remember, most of the smaller trailers, anyway, have a percolator tube in them and if you operate the refrigerator while stopped, while unleveled, you can shorten the the life of this part and they usually run into $$$...

How Level Is Level Enough For Your RV Refrigerator?
 

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Hi John!

And Thanks! Yes I've been welcomed already. Already have a few posts on here.

I'll see if I can get a "handyman" friend to cut bevels on some wood for me, unless I buy some kind of levelers as I've seen in videos that Eagle posted.

Can't wait to get out camping again! Already booked a site for May! :D
 
Update

I just ordered the "lego" type leveling blocks suggested in the video Eagle posted in his reply above ^^.

Ordered from Amazon.ca for $40.65 for a pack of 10 plus nylon carrying case. Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Leveler.

The Lynx brand was recommended over Camco brand by previous customer reviews.

Also ordered 4 stabilizer jack pads (my wood blocks are old and splitting, and dirty! At least I can wash off the plastic ones! lol), and 4 wheel chocks with rope attached for easy picking up. I demolished one of mine (don't ask how :p ) and the other 3 are old and brittle and breaking up.
 
Dawnie said:
Hi all and thanks for your input.
.....I have used wood under the wheels on the low side, however, as I am usually alone when camping, sometimes when I try to drive wheels on the wood the tire just pushes it out of the way, instead of driving up onto it.......
Click to expand...

I hear ya on the wood popping out, especially when doing this alone.

I cut a 45 degree slice off both ends of the wood, creating a tiny "ramp". It makes all the difference in the world, and the wood never seems to pop out anymore when the wheels start climbing up on them.

Also, and this may seem obvious, but when you line up the length of wood to pull/back up on it, walk WAY back and lean down to look if you are lined up. Its a bit of an optical illusion when standing close and judging if the wood is lined up. Then you walk back and have a look from further away and sometimes see how off it actually is!
 
team dougherty said:
I purchased two of these for my 189FSB https://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/kojack-leveler/94165 I back into the spot put them under the low side and crank till level side to side. They use the front jack to level front to back.
Click to expand...

Welcome the the Forum, Team Dougherty...
Cool idea and they look like they would work well... My problem, I have gotten used to the wood blocks and being a bit of a penny pincher, will probably hang with them... They are cheap and easy to make... Just make sure you make the bottom block long enough to accommodate the upper blocks... (Or else you get to cut it down for a shorter block) :rolleyes:
 
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John_C said:
Welcome the the Forum, Team Dougherty...
Cool idea and they look like they would work well... My problem, I have gotten used to the wood blocks and being a bit of a penny pincher, will probably hang with them... They are cheap and easy to make... Just make sure you make the bottom block long enough to accommodate the upper blocks... (Or else you get to cut it down for a shorter block) :rolleyes:
Click to expand...


Thanks for the welcome. Yes, they are a bit costly. But, so worth it. No pulling forward and not backing up again for checking level. back once and done.
 
Dawnie said:
I just ordered the "lego" type leveling blocks suggested in the video Eagle posted in his reply above ^^.

Ordered from Amazon.ca for $40.65 for a pack of 10 plus nylon carrying case. Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Leveler.

The Lynx brand was recommended over Camco brand by previous customer reviews.

Also ordered 4 stabilizer jack pads (my wood blocks are old and splitting, and dirty! At least I can wash off the plastic ones! lol), and 4 wheel chocks with rope attached for easy picking up. I demolished one of mine (don't ask how :p ) and the other 3 are old and brittle and breaking up.
Click to expand...

We also bought the plastic set and jack pads. But we use wood with 45 degree angles as well on our little 189. Works fine. But we do use the pads underneath our stabilizers, and yellow plastic wheel chicks.
 
My 'basement ' storage is minimal and jamb packed as it is. So I'm trying to lighten load and create some space.

I watched a you tube were a guy compared the weight of plastic levellers to wood pieces that people usually use. A 1x6 board was close to 20 lbs. Pack of 10 Lynx levellers 6.5 lbs.

Plus, I have an SUV for TV. If I had a pick up truck it'd be easier to throw hunks o wood in truck bed for such things.

Plus I have an aversion to dirt! And bugs! With plastic I can wash off easier!

Ps: I ordered on February 17 from Amazon.ca and they were delivered Feb. 21! Awesome service! Mind you the warehouse they were shipped from is only an hour away from me, but when I ordered they said delivery would be closer to April.

Can't wait to try them out.
 
Dawnie said:
My 'basement ' storage is minimal and jamb packed as it is. So I'm trying to lighten load and create some space.

I watched a you tube were a guy compared the weight of plastic levellers to wood pieces that people usually use. A 1x6 board was close to 20 lbs. Pack of 10 Lynx levellers 6.5 lbs.

Plus, I have an SUV for TV. If I had a pick up truck it'd be easier to throw hunks o wood in truck bed for such things.

Plus I have an aversion to dirt! And bugs! With plastic I can wash off easier!

Ps: I ordered on February 17 from Amazon.ca and they were delivered Feb. 21! Awesome service! Mind you the warehouse they were shipped from is only an hour away from me, but when I ordered they said delivery would be closer to April.

Can't wait to try them out.
Click to expand...

That would have to be a VERY long 1x6 to weigh in at 20 pounds. We just carry a 4' long one. It only weighs maybe 3 pounds tops!! Our trailer is only 19' long.
I have Amazon Prime and order Prime items. So delivery is generally two business days. Not all items qualify. But I buy lots of things that way since we live 20 miles from town.
 
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I'll say the wood he used was maybe 4 feet long? Guessing here on length and exact size. But it would depend on the type of wood he used too, Oak over pine etc. Yes?

Everyone uses different types of wood and different sizes so...

Not saying wood doesn't work good. It was just an example.

But, I'll see if I can find the video again. Stay tuned...��
 
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