USB Plugs

[Modmike]

I can't for the life of me understand why they put so many A/C plugs but nary a USB charge port in site. I installed 5 of these in all the sleeping areas and near the TV so people could charge their gadgets.

I got these for about $12.00 off of Amazon but you really need to look around or you could pay up to $20.00 for the same item.

Installation requires drilling and tapping into a 12V line. Don't try to install the A/C receptacles with the built in USB charge ports because you need to have electrical hookups or an inverter for those to work. These are stand alone and wire straight to 12V.

The blue LEDs work well as night lights for the master bedroom floor but are a nuisance everywhere else. Either cover them with black nail polish or carefully drill them out to stop current draw.

 

[Dakota 1120]

I guess I have no use for those USB ports in my camper but this adapter plug in type would work OK and moveable too if one needed it.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Eagle-Ele...bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&findingMethod=p13n

 

[Modmike]

Yes but it only works with hookups, not dry camping, unless you have an inverter.

 

[Dakota 1120]

Honda generator when dry camping = have power. :wink:

 

[bddaniel]

USB Power Alternatives

I wired additional duplex outlets with USB build-in (the unit Ace Hardware offers). Turns out it senses the presence of load to avoid running the circuit and wasting power unnecessarily. There is some disadvantage to this since some devices draw very little. Also, you can't have the cord plugged in first, then plug in your device.
I like your 12V alternative. But how much power does it draw without a device attached? It's possible mounting 12v cigarette lighter style sockets and plugging in the USB charger when you need it is the best solution.

 

[Modmike]

The LED draws a miniscule amount of power and that's it. Unfortunately I couldn't find any without LED so I was planning to disconnect them but the case is glued shut.

The new plan is to drill out the LED to disable it and fill the hole with hot glue in the units that aren't being used as night lights. That will reduce the load to 0.

I installed a 12V plug in my last trailer but found that the kids always misplaced the adapter. That's why I went hard mount. It's there, direct and efficient 12V and 0V draw with LED drilled out.

The reason yours needs to shut off is that there is a built in A/C to D/C converter that sucks power. They design it to shut off the converter when there is no load to save electricity. Is there any way you can disable the converter by stripping out any connection between the USB and A/C circuit and then wire the USB to 12V direct?

My original plan was to do just that but I wasn't sure if all that was accessible and/or doable so I got the stand alone ones.

 

[Modmike]

Honda generator when dry camping = have power. :wink:

So you are using a less efficient inverter, then running a generator to power it all to get USB? I have never heard of more inefficient setup than that. Frankly I hate generators Honda or not.

Is there any disadvantage to going solar over a genny? I am planning a 300W setup to charge batteries. I understand A/C is out of the question but I would only use that at night and that's a no-no in campsites.

 

[Dakota 1120]

I believe you mis-understood or missed the 2nd post in this discussion where I stated I have no use for USB ports in my camper.

To clarify: IF ever I need to charge my 'dumb phone' I can plug it into the lighter port in the tow vehicle, camper or motorcycle. The phone is only used for possible emergency phone calls....nothing more which is why I have a dumb phone and not a $500 phone with a $100 a monthly service fee.

Others may have a dozen or so electronic gizmos to play with that need USB ports. That sir, is something I have no use for.

Sorry for the confusion.