Water pump
- Thread starter Johnnypro
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- funfinderclub
webslave
Senior Member
The only thing that comes immediately to mind is the main disconnect switch (if outfitted). Do any of the other 12v devices work, i.e., lights?
If the disconnect is on, all the fuses are OK, then you can test the pump motor by running a jumper cable (cheap extension cord with the ends cut off will work; just be mindful of polarity) direct from the battery to the pump and see if it runs then. If it runs with the jumper and all the fuses are OK, then most likely a break in the wire...
If the disconnect is on, all the fuses are OK, then you can test the pump motor by running a jumper cable (cheap extension cord with the ends cut off will work; just be mindful of polarity) direct from the battery to the pump and see if it runs then. If it runs with the jumper and all the fuses are OK, then most likely a break in the wire...
JeepGuy-FUN
Advanced Member
it wont work if the main 12v switch is off (mine is in the front passenger side compartment, 160x, the switch should be pulled out to be on) does the light light up on the pump switch? is your battery charged?
webslave
Senior Member
Just for those following these posts and are new to RVs...
12v switch = main disconnect = battery cutoff = battery disconnect.
Different ways of saying the same thing. Many trailers come with a "main disconnect". When activated, it removes the 12v battery from the system. Some converters will still supply 12v power with the battery disconnected when plugged into shore power. Some converters need to have the battery "present and accounted for" before they will provide 12v power with shore power...
None will provide 12v when the disconnect is activated and no shore power is present
Anytime you don't have 12v power to your system, the first thing to check is that disconnect. Most of them are designed so that you pull them out to "connect" the battery and push them in for disconnect. It isn't unusual for a service facility, in winterizing, to disconnect your battery with this switch so that the LP detector and radio(s), etc. don't run your battery down over the winter. It is also not a rare occurence for the switch to accidentally get pushed in. Many of these switches are in storage bays where stuff sliding around (as in the 210WBS, I built a guard around mine) will push them in; in other rigs, like a friend's 244RBS, it is at floor level by the door where it can get pushed in by a broom, misplaced foot, etc.
12v switch = main disconnect = battery cutoff = battery disconnect.
Different ways of saying the same thing. Many trailers come with a "main disconnect". When activated, it removes the 12v battery from the system. Some converters will still supply 12v power with the battery disconnected when plugged into shore power. Some converters need to have the battery "present and accounted for" before they will provide 12v power with shore power...
None will provide 12v when the disconnect is activated and no shore power is present
Anytime you don't have 12v power to your system, the first thing to check is that disconnect. Most of them are designed so that you pull them out to "connect" the battery and push them in for disconnect. It isn't unusual for a service facility, in winterizing, to disconnect your battery with this switch so that the LP detector and radio(s), etc. don't run your battery down over the winter. It is also not a rare occurence for the switch to accidentally get pushed in. Many of these switches are in storage bays where stuff sliding around (as in the 210WBS, I built a guard around mine) will push them in; in other rigs, like a friend's 244RBS, it is at floor level by the door where it can get pushed in by a broom, misplaced foot, etc.
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