Hey Gerry and Linda,
Although bothersome, my issues were repairable while in service ... in other words, I managed to remedy the problem while settled into a campsite. I carry a small fold-out ladder in the "basement" which came in handy. Also, I ordered a good memory foam mattress from Overstock.com last night as the OEM mattress that came with the unit proved to be inadequate.
The water-pump leak was simply a loose sight-glass dome that screws into the housing. I'm having trouble getting a new burner valve for the stove. There is a number printed on the valve body but both Suburban and Camping world insist that the actual number for the valve is 116160. When I talked to Suburban they said that they had no record of the number printed on the valve and their records showed that the model stove we have uses the above valve. This is what the Camping World parts manager told me as well. I ordered the valve which came in and of course, it didn't look anything like the valve in our stove. Cost me $8.60 in shipping charges to find this out.
The shower doors are retained (intended) by a flat black rubber strap that loops around each knob on the doors. Apparently, it doesn't hold. If it comes off, the doors bang open and shut going down the road and the rollers at the bottom (on ours) were destroyed. I called Cruiser RV customer service and talked to Dave. As I mentioned, Dave was very friendly and professional. They had to order the rollers and it took 10 days but they shipped me a complete set to replace every one of the assemblies, top and bottom so I have to be happy about that. I now stretch one of the very small bungee cords across the top of the two knobs, make a wrap around each knob and then hook the two ends of the cord together. It's tight and it works.
I don't know what size TV you have or plan to have. The rotary board in the entertainment center intended for mounting a flatscreen is a marginal design and the pivots at the top and bottom are cheap plastic and barely hold the board in place when you're not moving. Ours had all kinds of play and slop in the mechanism and you could move the board in either direction about an inch when it was in the locked position. I bought two small sliding pin gate latches and mounted one in each side in the center. When they're latched, the board is very tight and doesn't budge. You can easily slide the pins back and disengage the latch to rotate the board around if you want to for bedroom viewing.
As for the fresh water tank venting issue, I haven't figured that one out yet. When I got home, I opened the drain under the trailer and for the first time, water actually drained out normally. (I had opened it a half dozen times prior and only a very small dibble was expelled). I'll have to look into that also.
I'm quite pleased that all of the more complex systems functioned normally ..... furnace, refrigerator, toilet, water heater and plumbing in general. No issues with the awning, lights, stereo, tongue jack or fixtures.
We did have problems running our 1500 Watt infra-red space heater a bit. If we used any of the high draw items such as the microwave or coffee maker when it was running, it would trip the breaker. We had nights down in the 20s so we tried running an additional little heater which would also trip the breaker. This was a bit of a puzzle to me as each of these heaters draws about 12 Amps and combined are less than the 30 Amp system but I guess the GFI outlets are on a 20 Amp circuit. I was able to run an extension cord out the back window (in the bathroom) and plug it into the 20 Amp circuit in the pedestal to isolate it's power draw (yes, the window screens do slide open if need be).
Hope some of this is helpful.
Regards,
Neil & Yoly
