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Old 07-13-2019, 03:07 PM   #1
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Default New FunFinder Owner - 2008 X189FBS

Hello!

My husband and I just purchased our first trailer and are so excited. We have now camped in the backyard -next onto some nearby parks and then beyond!

We are excited to find this group as I know we'll have questions -- our most current one being about generators to run the AC & microwave. We purchased two 2000W Briggs & Stratton portable generators to parallel connect and now are worried that it might not work based on internet posts. (You don't know which to trust and which to ignore.)

We're just excited to have a new way to spend time together and get away from everything!

Thanks for being here!
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Old 07-13-2019, 05:33 PM   #2
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Welcome! Be sure to ask lots of questions. We were all newbies, once upon a time . . . .

I don't know anything about the Briggs generators, but lots of folks successfully link two Honda 2000 generators to run the a/c. Why wouldn't the Briggs do the same thing??

Where are you located, and where will your first trips take you?
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Old 07-14-2019, 09:45 AM   #3
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As prof mentioned above, if you link the B&S gen sets, don't see why they won't do the job for you.

I have the Honda Eu2000i and the companion Honda Eu2000i gen sets with a parallel kit. They serve me well for RV use.

Not purchased for RVing but also have a B&S Q6500 but haven't used it much, however, it seems to function perfectly.

Note: The Eu2000i series have been replaced with the Eu2200 series, a little higher output.
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Old 07-14-2019, 09:45 AM   #4
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You should be able to Briggs & Stratton makes a parallel kit for their powersmart series of inverter generators. Not sure if all of the models are compatible. The manual should tell you if they are capable.
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:10 AM   #5
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As long as they are the 'inverter' type with 'clean power' you should be fine.

I assume your setup is like this:
https://www.powerequipmentdirect.com...IT/p62939.html
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Old 07-21-2019, 01:25 PM   #6
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We have two IPower/Yamaha 2000 generations from costco and they work great. The AC on the 189FDS/FBS is pretty small. Larger RV’s with larger AC’s might be problematic. Also, high elevation can make the AC work a lot harder - with 189... we’ve camps at 4000’ elv and the generator worked fine.
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Old 07-21-2019, 03:09 PM   #7
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Default A Couple FF 189FBS Suggestions

Welcome as a new Funfinder 189FBS owner. We owned our 2008 for eight years (it was 3 years old when we purchased it in 2011) and upsized earlier this year to a Shadow Cruiser. Our FF served us well through the years with a final 23000-mile round trip from Florida to Alaska in 2018!

This forum is a great source of information about your FF, and even though I no longer own a FF, I find many of the tips and tricks apply to my Shadow Cruiser as well.

A couple 'painful' lessons we learned I thought I would pass along:

- frequently check the spare tire mounted to the exterior back wall of the FF. There are several posts on this forum about problems with water intrusion and eventual rot that cause the mount to fail (including mine) on the FF 189FBS and several other models with the spare mounted in this way.

You should remove the small panel behind the toilet to inspect the mounting bolts plus frequently check the caulking around exterior bolts to ensure all is well sealed. Recaulk as needed with good quality silicone caulk.

- we also had water infiltration/rot issues around the slide and had to have the slide rebuilt on our way to Alaska. The first sign of trouble was the slide was 'sagging' several years ago. We had it adjusted but did not find a leak at the time.

On the road to Alaska it got MUCH worse, with the top of the slide tipping out up to an inch as we hit road bumps. The bottom panel on the slide was seriously rotted!

You can remove the vinyl covered piece inside the slide storage hatch to ensure all is dry. The vinyl covered piece can be replaced with something more easily removable.

Main thing with leaks is to frequently check for them and take prompt action if you find one before serious rot occurs!

Have fun with your FF. We enjoyed the flexibility ours gave us in tight campsites and the ease with which it could be pulled!
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Old 07-21-2019, 08:40 PM   #8
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Agree with the previous post, watch that spare tire mount very closely but please don't use silicone, use a product such as proflex or similar.

Unless the previous owner has done something, you'll find that there is no sealant at the mount or at the bolt holes causing water to wept in and cause a lot of damage, I've just spent four days ripping out rotten wood and cleaning the lot area up.

Also check around the marker lights and taillights, some of mine on my 06 never ever had any sealant and there was some evidence of water seepage over the 13 years of the trailer.
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:32 AM   #9
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Hi - thanks for the picture of the wall behind your toilet showing the full wall panel you installed. Nice work!

Were you able to remount your spare tire on the back? I redid the exterior damaged areas of our FF with fiberglass and decided to carry the tire in the back of my truck.

I also appreciate the tip about the Proflex. I have some caulking/sealing to do on my Shadow Cruiser and will give it a try. In a similar sort of way, Dicor is MUCH better for roof seal repairs versus any sort of standard caulk.

Happy travels.
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:41 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThompsonJax3880 View Post
Hi - thanks for the picture of the wall behind your toilet showing the full wall panel you installed. Nice work!

Were you able to remount your spare tire on the back? I redid the exterior damaged areas of our FF with fiberglass and decided to carry the tire in the back of my truck.

I also appreciate the tip about the Proflex. I have some caulking/sealing to do on my Shadow Cruiser and will give it a try. In a similar sort of way, Dicor is MUCH better for roof seal repairs versus any sort of standard caulk.

Happy travels.
Thanks, I use no sag dicor for roof repairs also.

I've made no attempt to reattach the spare tire back in it's original spot, to me it's a poor design. Basically it was bolted through the wall and the wall was reinforced with 1" wood planks but these boards weren't really attached to anything, they were pretty much just floating in the void.

I'm looking at attaching a mount to the under side of the trailer tongue, maybe under the battery box rack, but yes the fail safe is always in the back of the truck.
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