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Old 02-16-2017, 02:36 PM   #1
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Default Trailer Leveling

Hi, My RV has stabilizers, not levelers and at times (usually all the time) one side of RV is lower than the other. Not by much but enough that doors inside either swing open or shut and won't stay put.

Been looking around at ways to fix that. Do you think a 4 ton hydraulic bottle jack would do the trick to aid in leveling? Amazon has one for $26.13.

Any other options I should consider?

Thanks!
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:46 PM   #2
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Standard procedure

Have at least 1 stick on leveler on the side of camper and 1 in the front to check level quickly

You put a 2X6 or 2 under wheels on low side (maybe have a 1X6 also to fine tune)
OR
Buy some interlocking level Blocks.
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Old 02-16-2017, 06:02 PM   #3
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One way to check the level is to use a marble the counter top inside the trailer.
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:21 AM   #4
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Stick on levels work great, but they can get bumped (trick is you have to get your trailer 100% level using something else before you attach them!)

We also keep a couple of lengths of 2x6 and use them quite often on one side to get level on poorly made sites. Sometimes, the second length of wood gets used under just one wheel to make the difference.

A 2x6, about one foot longer at both ends than the distance of both wheels seems to be enough to allow forgiveness for not being exact when driving/backing up on them.

All of this of course only helps with side to side leveling. Front to back is ALWAYS done simply using the front jack on your trailer. (thank goodness for my electric one with a remote!)

Also very helpful are the free leveling Apps you can put on your phone, and we use it to double check everything at several points before final set up. The location I find most helpful is on the counter next to the kitchen sink, and the centre of the main area floor for level, or we make make final adjustments.

But are right, don't use the stabalizers for leveling. Some people also extend any slide-outs before leveling, although my experiments say my slide-out doesn't change anything.

Personally, any kind of hydraulic lift would just bend your frame (eventually) and only cause you problems down the road.
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Old 02-17-2017, 07:16 AM   #5
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The stabilizer jacks on the 4 corners are JUST TO STABILIZE the trailer .... NOT for leveling!!

NEVER use them to level the trailer. Simply use wood (2x6's or 1x6's about 3 - 4 foot long) or the plastic leveling pads under the wheels.

Read this: RV Leveling Blocks - Read This Before Buying

In the video, he only raises one tire with a ramp type block. I prefer to have the weight on both tires so use a 2x6 under both tires.

Here is another:
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Old 02-17-2017, 07:59 AM   #6
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Hi all and thanks for your input.

Just to be clear, I do use a level and can, of course, level the trailer front to back with the tongue jack.

I do not use the 4 corner stabilizers as levelers ever.

I have used wood under the wheels on the low side, however, as I am usually alone when camping, sometimes when I try to drive wheels on the wood the tire just pushes it out of the way, instead of driving up onto it. (when I have someone with me, this is not a problem because I simply get them to hold it in place till I get the tire on it.

I was just thinking that maybe a bottle jack, used dead centre on whatever side is lower and using a piece of 2x4 or something to spread the weight over a larger area of frame,(and wood under the jack as well of course, so it doesn't sink into the ground) and jack up a couple inches to level side to side would work.

Would that really bend the frame?
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:14 AM   #7
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I would not jack on the frame.

Example, when removing a wheel/tire, I only place the hydraulic jack under the plate that helps secure the leaf spring to the axle for lifting the wheel/tire off the ground....never on the frame that can bend/twist sideways or buckle.

Although I haven't used the plastic pads (only wood), apparently they are designed not to slide when backing on them.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:26 AM   #8
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Thanks Eagle! I will take your advice and not get the jack.

I'll look into the leveling pads instead.
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Old 02-17-2017, 11:17 AM   #9
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Hi Dawnie,
Welcome to the Forum if not already welcomed...

You have been informed correctly on the leveling of your trailer... I did a bunch of work on the garage and just cut up left-over 2x6's, 1x6 plywood for leveling blocks. Just cut about a 60 degree bevel on both ends to assist driving on. I cut lengths in three different lengths the one on the bottom is about six inches longer than the second board and the same with the second in relation with the third. Easy-Peasy, make enough to raise the trailer to level and like Eagle, I use the stick-on levels and carry a little level in case one of the stick-on's fall off... This was cheap and took about 10 minutes to cut a half dozen boards... Hey Dawnie, to help keep them from sliding, just glue/or stick a couple pieces of of coarse sandpaper to the bottom of the upper boards...

Remember, most of the smaller trailers, anyway, have a percolator tube in them and if you operate the refrigerator while stopped, while unleveled, you can shorten the the life of this part and they usually run into $$$...

How Level Is Level Enough For Your RV Refrigerator?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Leveling Blocks.jpg (12.8 KB, 1 views)
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:36 PM   #10
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Hi John!

And Thanks! Yes I've been welcomed already. Already have a few posts on here.

I'll see if I can get a "handyman" friend to cut bevels on some wood for me, unless I buy some kind of levelers as I've seen in videos that Eagle posted.

Can't wait to get out camping again! Already booked a site for May!
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