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Old 04-24-2014, 09:47 PM   #21
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I'll ass-u-me the check valves are there to stop the water movement when the lines get cold and keep the water heater running more than necessary.
Mine is so hard to get at. I think I'll take the elbow out at the water heater output and put a tee with long pex line and valve to drain that line and flush anti freeze through it.
Thanks for the confirmation on the check valve

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Old 04-25-2014, 12:00 PM   #22
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I have read you are not suppose to let anti freeze in the hot water tank. The valve lever breaking off has nothing to do with a frozen line. It was 60 degrees when mine snapped off. I have taken the broken valve apart and concluded its a cheap poorly designed excuse for a valve. As for the low point drains, good luck with that since on mine they are not the lowest point on the system so water will still be in the lines somewhere along them.

Best thing to do is replace these cheap valves before they gice you trouble. Most expense is the actual tool to crook the PEX clamp with. The band PEX clamps are cheap a bag is a couple of bucks.

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Old 04-25-2014, 01:22 PM   #23
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Let me get this right, the valves worked before winter, but this spring there broke, wonder why. Jerry
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:36 PM   #24
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There's no real reason to put anti freeze in the HW tank, plus it would take a ton to fill it. Just pull the anode and there's plenty of room for expansion. However it won't hurt anything if it's in there.
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Old 04-25-2014, 06:32 PM   #25
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Go to harbor freight probably much cheaper than anywhere else for a crimping tool

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