Replace or augment stabilizer jacks?

[RhythmMachine]

We have a 2008 189FD and while I don't expect it to feel like a house, I would love for it to feel a little less like a boat when people move. I've added x-chock type wheel chocks (they go between the tires and then spread to exert pressure to keep the tires from rolling but also enhance front/back stability) which have made a huge difference, but I'm wondering what else I can do.

We still have the original, single-arm, screw-down stabilizer jacks. Even if I tighten them up (with plenty of blocks under to minimize how far they need to extend) we get a lot of rocking motion when people move. From what I've read, scissor jacks are more stable than the single-arm style, but since I already have the single-arm type installed, would it be beneficial to just use some extra scissor or screw-type jacks in addition to the existing ones?

If so, what should I look for when placing them? I assume I'd need to play a bit with different locations to see what's most effective, but apart from making sure they are under steel frame and not just sub-floor or something, is there more to keep in mind? And is there a benefit to scissor jacks over screw-type ones, or should I just go with whatever I can find at a decent price?

I'd also love to add something under the steps for additional stability, but since the steps slide up and onto a frame I don't know if the products that mount underneath the lowest step will actually work... may just see about using a jack or jacks there as well, if I can figure out a configuration that won't result in a problematic number of stubbed toes...

[foakes]

A set of scissor jacks can be had for $75 to $135.

Including all mounting hardware, drill bit, hex bit for a powered-driver easier deployment, etc.

Just remove the old ones and install these on all (4) corners.

We have these on our FF189FBS — and they work very well.

Once I have the trailer leveled — these make a rock-solid base when used with 2X6’s or stabilizing blocks.

I use a drill with a hex bit for faster raising and lowering

Best, Fred

[RhythmMachine]

Originally Posted by foakes

A set of scissor jacks can be had for $75 to $135.

Including all mounting hardware, drill bit, hex bit for a powered-driver easier deployment, etc.

Just remove the old ones and install these on all (4) corners.

We have these on our FF189FBS — and they work very well.

Once I have the trailer leveled — these make a rock-solid base when used with 2X6’s or stabilizing blocks.

I use a drill with a hex bit for faster raising and lowering

Best, Fred

Thanks - they're a bit more expensive here, but I just found someone who had a set of 4 older ones they just took off their camper for $20, so I'll be able to pick those up later this week and hopefully they help, assuming my battle with the (likely rusty) bolts is successful for the changeover!

[foakes]

Sounds good.

Make sure that the scissor jacks are not tweaked, stripped threads, and properly functioning with a good grease on the screw mechanism.

I would also suggest getting rid of any rusty bolts and nuts.

Use (16) new grade 5 bolts, nuts, and lock washers. They are a stronger steel, tempered, and less prone to soft-zinc rust.

Get a socket to mount on a 1/2” battery drill/driver. You will be glad you did.

Best, Fred

[Silverado]

Try these out, my trailer doesn't need them but others have found a big difference in movement with this set up. You may not need to change your Jack's. Also use a drill not a driver or impact driver as they are hard on the Jack's. Silverado

[RhythmMachine]

Originally Posted by Silverado

Try these out, my trailer doesn't need them but others have found a big difference in movement with this set up. You may not need to change your Jack's. Also use a drill not a driver or impact driver as they are hard on the Jack's. Silverado

I do use those, and they are a huge help with front/back motion, but I still get a lot of rocking side to side. Hopefully adding the new (old) scissor jacks will get me closer.

Is it correct that the less I have to extend the scissor jacks, the better? So using a bigger stack of leveling blocks will help?

And I think I'll stick to manually cranking the jacks. It doesn't take long and one less thing to bring (drill) is worth it since we have a small trailer/SUV for 4 people and 2 dogs... the space is worth more to me than 5 minutes of hand-cranking.

[RhythmMachine]

Originally Posted by foakes

Sounds good.

Make sure that the scissor jacks are not tweaked, stripped threads, and properly functioning with a good grease on the screw mechanism.

I would also suggest getting rid of any rusty bolts and nuts.

Use (16) new grade 5 bolts, nuts, and lock washers. They are a stronger steel, tempered, and less prone to soft-zinc rust.

Get a socket to mount on a 1/2” battery drill/driver. You will be glad you did.

Best, Fred

Good idea with pick9ng up fresh bolts, nuts, and locking washers. Thanks!

At $20 for all four I'm not expecting the jacks to be perfect, but the seller did say that they're all fully functional. What's the best bet to lubricate them if needed... just some 3-in-1 oil, or do I need something heavier?

[foakes]

Oil will just come off. 3 in 1 is too thin.

I would use a grease like you use for wheel bearings.

Yamalube Marine is good to stay on and also be water resistant.

Clean the threads with a wire brush or wire wheel to remove any rust, if present.

Doesn’t need a lot of grease — just a thin coat on the screw-drive with a brush.

Best, Fred

[jimplumley]

Originally Posted by RhythmMachine

I do use those, and they are a huge help with front/back motion, but I still get a lot of rocking side to side. Hopefully adding the new (old) scissor jacks will get me closer.

Is it correct that the less I have to extend the scissor jacks, the better? So using a bigger stack of leveling blocks will help?

And I think I'll stick to manually cranking the jacks. It doesn't take long and one less thing to bring (drill) is worth it since we have a small trailer/SUV for 4 people and 2 dogs... the space is worth more to me than 5 minutes of hand-cranking.

After 40+ years of camping, I want to suggest that you always take - and keep - a reliable, decent drill/driver with you. (It doesn't have to be able to remove wheels lugs.) Also take adapters, screw driver bits and a basic 3/8" drive socket set. Believe me, when you're lying in the mud during a rain storm and tightening a bolt in the dark, the extra 3lbs of equipment will be worth it.

[profdant139]

Jim, great tip -- "always take - and keep - a reliable, decent drill/driver with you."

I would just add "and make sure it is fully charged."

Don't ask how I learned this.

I would also add that an adjustable crescent wrench will come in handy if you forget to keep the drill charged.

[RhythmMachine]

Originally Posted by profdant139

Jim, great tip -- "always take - and keep - a reliable, decent drill/driver with you."

I would just add "and make sure it is fully charged."

Don't ask how I learned this.

I would also add that an adjustable crescent wrench will come in handy if you forget to keep the drill charged.

I do try to bring a few versatile tools with me, but my drill is corded so often less convenient than just getting out the wrench or socket set, which are always fully charged!

[RhythmMachine]

Originally Posted by foakes

Oil will just come off. 3 in 1 is too thin.

I would use a grease like you use for wheel bearings.

Yamalube Marine is good to stay on and also be water resistant.

Clean the threads with a wire brush or wire wheel to remove any rust, if present.

Doesn’t need a lot of grease — just a thin coat on the screw-drive with a brush.

Best, Fred

Thanks - that helps! I'll pick some up.

[RhythmMachine]

So, I got the used set of 4 scissor jacks and I'm now wondering about a hybrid approach... leaving the existing single-arm jacks on the corners, but then either mounting or just placing the scissor jacks each time to provide support that isn't just at the corners (either closer to the center, near to the wheels, or even close to the corners but just pulled in a bit more towards the center.

I don't mind a bit of extra setup/teardown time at each site if there would be a noticeable difference in stability by using the stock jacks with the scissor ones instead of replacing the stock ones.

[LJAZ]

I would think using both sets would give you more stability.

If you don't attach them you can try them in different places and see what works best.

[RhythmMachine]

Originally Posted by LJAZ

I would think using both sets would give you more stability.

If you don't attach them you can try them in different places and see what works best.

I liked your idea of trying them in different spots. Had our first go last weekend, and I kept the old ones at the corners and used the additional scissor jacks on each side, one in front of the wheels and one behind.

What a huge difference!

I don't know how much of the additional stability comes from using the original ones and the extras, though - when I put the scissor jacks ups I realized that without it feeling like I was doing much, I had actually raised the trailer a bit and so the original corner stab jacks were either a bit loose or actually off the ground. I cranked them down a bit more, but I'm not sure that the corner ones are contributing much at all. Having the extra 4 that aren't attached certainly increased the setup/teardown time a bit, though.

I think next I'll not use the original stab jacks at all and see if I can get the scissor jacks close enough to the corners to get a feel for what it would be like to have the scissor jacks replace the old ones. If it's adequately stable, then I'll just remove the stock ones, attach the scissor jacks, and go with that.

The other configuration that I'm considering is keeping the originals at the front of the trailer (where it also has some support from the tongue jack and, since it's just a bed at that end, there's less movement than at the other end with the bathroom and the door), replacing the ones at the rear of the trailer with the scissor jacks, and then bolting the remaining two scissor jacks either just in front of or behind the wheels so I would have two solid support at the back, two more at the middle, and then two less effective ones at the front. Or I'll just keep an eye out for a couple more cheap used ones.

The one thing I'm not sure about, though, is if there's a risk of bending the frame if I'm using the scissor jacks to really reduce the amount of weight that that's being borne by the wheels. It hasn't been an issue with the stab jacks since I could never crank them hard enough to do that, but it seems to be quite easy to actually lift it with the scissor jacks...

[foakes]

Man, I’ve got to hand it to you for being so patient!

For me, I just want to know what works well when I get to a camping spot, crank down the jacks, and relax after driving and doing other setup chores.

On our 189FBS, if I crank up the passenger rear Jack too tightly — the deadbolt will not lock the door. I guess there is a little frame flex on the outer extremities that slightly tweaks the door frame. So I am careful not to do that.

Best, Fred