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Old 10-16-2013, 10:44 PM   #1
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 262
Default Summer is over. Time to Winterize!

We bought a "new to us" 2007 FunFinder Shadow Cruiser x210 back in June. Used it on several occasions and we are generally very pleased. I've arranged for indoor storage but it's not heated so I need to Winterize. Did some "searches" and got a wide range of info on how to do it. I'd like to avoid using antifreeze in the supply lines if at all possible. Many said they did it that way. Don't have a problem with a-f in the traps or holding tanks tho and will be putting some in there.
I started the process a few days ago by draining the 25 gal fresh water tank that's under the queen bed. The drain valve is mounted on the side of the tank so the tank has to be tipped up from the far side to allow most of the water to drain from the tank. Once most of the water drained passively, I tipped the tank so direct any remaining water toward the pump pick up hose then ran the pump to drain the last little bit. I made sure to not run the pump for more that a few seconds once the water was drained. Definite change in the sound of the pump.
Next, I popped the "low point" drain valves. I could only find three. One just past the pump, And two (one on the hot circuit and one on the cold circuit). They were at the back of the access cabinet beneath the frig. I opened all of the faucets to facilitate drainage.
While those lines were draining, I removed the anode rod/plug from the water heater. A 1 inch socket would have been perfect but I didn't have one and resorted to ViceGrip pliers. Others were right when they said "stand back" when the plug is removed. There's a lot of water in there. I activated the pressure relief valve AFTER the plug was removed and I think that offered a bit of protection from the gush of water. Once the tank was drained I put the circuit to the heater in the "by-pass" mode.
The plug had a bit of corrosion developing as did the threads on the tank. I cleaned up the plug with the wire wheel and tank threads with a steel bristle brush.
Some said to put the plug back in others said leave it out. I chose to put it back in to protect the threads from further corrosion and to keep the varmints out.
Next, I closed all of the faucets and the "low point" line drains near the pump and the one on the cold circuit leaving the hot circuit drain open. Using a blow out plug (from WalMart) that screws into the "city water" hook up, I applied gentle air pressure from a portable air tank. A fair amount of water came out of the "low point" valve on the hot circuit. Once only air was coming out, I stopped and closed the valve.
Finally, I had my wife open each of the faucets including the flush pedal on the toilet, (one at a time) while I applied the air pressure to blow any remaining water out of the feeder lines. I didn't know where to start but chose to start with the closest cold faucet and end with the last hot faucet on the circuit. If that turns out to be the wrong way, I'll do it again in the other direction.
As a final step, I opened all of the faucets as well as the "low point" drains. I'm pretty sure that this sequence has cleared the lines of water and should eliminate the need for filling the lines with the pink stuff.
The next step (tomorrow) will be to flush the drains with clean warm water. I drained both the blackwater and graywater tanks on the last day of our last trip. I will flush both tanks with warm water, drain them both and add a gallon or so of a-f to each. The blackwater tank via the toilet and the graywater tank via the traps.
If anyone thinks that this doesn't do the job properly, please chime in. Thanks. RipVan
If you're not livin' on the edge, you're takin' up too much space!

2007 Shadow Cruiser x210, 2004 RAM 2500 4x4 QuadCab SLT 5.9L CTD, Factory Tow Pkg (3.73 axle), HaulMaster WDH
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