Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-19-2021, 02:30 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 2
Post 2009 Fun Finder X210WBS Battery Issue

Hello,

I bought a 2009 Fun Finder X210WBS and have been fixing so many items it is maddening. Latest madness: With no power applied the battery test button does not register any charge, nor does it turn on the water pump. No lights will light up (fresh water, grey water, black water) either. Battery is good with 13.7 Volts and with generator or shore power applied everything will work. I am not sure what the issue is with the battery power. I would greatly appreciate any ideas!

**UPDATE: I discovered the guy had the battery positive and negative cables hooked up backwards. I switched hem around...battery still reads 13.7 volts...battery test display still does not register in battery power only. Everything still works on a generator and shore power. I am baffled.

Thank You,

Spike the Disgruntled Used RV Owner
__________________

Mountjoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2021, 09:54 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,007
Default

Everything works on shore power but not on the battery. Have you checked the battery fuse? It's usually near the battery, in-line, I think on the positive cable.

I'm guessing you've tried that.

If the fuse is good, then it sounds like a continuity problem. Do you have a continuity tester?

Please forgive me if these suggestions are obvious -- I am not an expert on electrical stuff. Good luck, and hang in there!!
__________________

__________________
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
profdant139 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2021, 10:05 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: SoCal
Posts: 290
Default

**UPDATE: I discovered the guy had the battery positive and negative cables hooked up backwards. I switched hem around...battery still reads 13.7 volts...battery test display still does not register in battery power only. Everything still works on a generator and shore power. I am baffled.

Thank You,

Spike the Disgruntled Used RV Owner[/QUOTE]

Spike,
If you have a WFCO Converter there are 1 or 2 fuses in it (mounted on the circuit board) that connect the battery with the DC circuit which is powered by the converter when connected to shore power. Prof mentioned the fuse near the batteries but there are 1 or 2 in the Converter.
__________________
2016 F281BIKS, Added Renogy DC-DC charger to better charge deep cycle batteries.
2003 F250 7.3L Powerstroke Crewcab longbed 20K lbs GCWR
JimboFunFinder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2021, 08:50 AM   #4
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 2
Default

Thank you for the information. I have an 8955PEC080504 power converter. This version has a ceramic inline fuse on the 110v side which ohms check good and no other fuses I could find. The fan on the DC side doesn't work. I have 110v coming in on the shore power side. I believe the problem is the converter fails to switch over to DC power when shore power is disconnected. When connected to shore power I do not have 13.7v going to the battery. I have a good fuse on the battery side and the battery is pushing 13.7v back to where the cutoff switch is. So I know both sides are providing power. I believe the problem exists within the converter. I wish I could have figured it out but gave in and ordered a new converter. If that doesn't fix it, then I am stumped.
Mountjoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2021, 10:42 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: SoCal
Posts: 290
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountjoy View Post
Thank you for the information. I have an 8955PEC080504 power converter. This version has a ceramic inline fuse on the 110v side which ohms check good and no other fuses I could find. The fan on the DC side doesn't work. I have 110v coming in on the shore power side. I believe the problem is the converter fails to switch over to DC power when shore power is disconnected. When connected to shore power I do not have 13.7v going to the battery. I have a good fuse on the battery side and the battery is pushing 13.7v back to where the cutoff switch is. So I know both sides are providing power. I believe the problem exists within the converter. I wish I could have figured it out but gave in and ordered a new converter. If that doesn't fix it, then I am stumped.
Your Converter is made by WFCO and the model is 8955. The manual is available here: https://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conte...l-FINAL-RP.pdf

Refer to the fuse location diagram. I think you will find that one or both of the Reverse Polarity Fuses have blown. This would explain why your battery does not power the DC circuits.

If you find that the fuse(s) is good then measure the voltage at the Battery Positive terminal connection (lower right on diagram) with respect to ground. Does it show the battery voltage? If not either the wire(s) going to the battery is broken or the external fuse (normally an inline fuse located on the frame near the battery compartment) has blown. My wires to the battery were white and 8 or 10 awg. Yours may have one or two wires to handle the current.

Please let us know what you find.
Attached Thumbnails
WFCO 8955.JPG  
__________________
2016 F281BIKS, Added Renogy DC-DC charger to better charge deep cycle batteries.
2003 F250 7.3L Powerstroke Crewcab longbed 20K lbs GCWR
JimboFunFinder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2021, 07:24 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: SoCal
Posts: 290
Default

Oops, i erred. The white wires on the battery were from the negative post and connected to the frame. The positive was either Red or Black, I can't remember.
__________________
2016 F281BIKS, Added Renogy DC-DC charger to better charge deep cycle batteries.
2003 F250 7.3L Powerstroke Crewcab longbed 20K lbs GCWR
JimboFunFinder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2021, 04:47 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 83
Default

Your converter has nothing to do with running on battery only. The converter is used to convert AC shore power to DC 12v. If not connected to shore power the converter does nothing. I don't even use mine ever. I run purely DC and charge via solar. Of your batteries are good then you have a fuse blown somewhere. The circuit should be fused between the battery and the fuse box or distribution panel. Especially if it was connected backwards then you would have a short and blown the fuse. It is unlikely the wiring is blown, but it can happen if with a short and no fuse, but again I cannot see that this wo6be the case. Disconnect the battery and ohm out the connections from the battery to the distribution panel and then from negative side back to the battery. You could do it powered as well, set the meter to DC voltage and measure between the plus and the negative probing along all of the connections. You should read the battery voltage up until to distribution panel.
__________________
gator
gator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2021, 05:03 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: SoCal
Posts: 290
Default

The DC distribution block and all of the DC fuses at this end are located inside the WFCO assembly as I indicated in my posting above. My trailer also has a fuse located near the battery.
__________________
2016 F281BIKS, Added Renogy DC-DC charger to better charge deep cycle batteries.
2003 F250 7.3L Powerstroke Crewcab longbed 20K lbs GCWR
JimboFunFinder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2021, 05:53 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 83
Default

Look at figure 2 in the pdf link you posted and you will see how the converter hooks into the dc distribution block. The converter is still separate even though it is part of the assembly. It can and could be replaced separately. It still has nothing to do with running on dc power alone.
__________________
gator
gator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2021, 07:07 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: SoCal
Posts: 290
Default

If one or both of the Reverse Polarity Protection fuses has failed then no power from the battery will be at the DC distribution block. In my case there are two 40 Amp fuses.
__________________
2016 F281BIKS, Added Renogy DC-DC charger to better charge deep cycle batteries.
2003 F250 7.3L Powerstroke Crewcab longbed 20K lbs GCWR
JimboFunFinder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2021, 09:25 PM   #11
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: FL Keys and Vermont
Posts: 51
Default

It's entirely possible the answer could be as simple as a master battery cutoff switch. I'm not sure about the X210WBS but on mine, it's in the forward storage compartment accessible through the left side luggage door. Alternatively, a former owner could have added a master switch somewhere else in the system.
__________________
Dick Harper
Florida Keys and far Northern Vermont
2009 Fun Finder XT245
2013 GMC Sierra
NorthPuffin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 10:36 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
twinster2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Kalamazoo, MI & Leesburg, FL
Posts: 682
Default

On my 189FBR, I discovered that the crimp connectors at the battery had corroded and no longer made electrical contact. Solution was to replaced and solder in new connectors and fuse holder at battery. Moral is to always look for the simplest explanations first before doing more complicated and expensive solutions.
__________________
2013 Highlander AWD
2010 Fun Finder 189FBR
Into Camping and RC Flying
twinster2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2021, 05:43 AM   #13
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Send a message via AIM to anthonyx2
Default Battery Power Draining

I've had on-going issues with battery power. At first changing the in line battery fuse holder for a new one seemed like the answer I was looking for. But I was constantly losing battery power. Charge the battery and, in a day or two with nothing turned on, no lights, no fridge, nothing, the battery would be almost dead. Well I got right into it the last couple of days trying to find some sort of short in the system.

What did I find? Eventually worked my way tracing wires and odd readings out to the harness connector at the front of the trailer. Pulled it apart and it was covered in crystalized corrosion. So power was draining out that Sub-battery wire to the connector and through everything it was half shorted out to. It was very odd, because it wasn't enough of a short to blow a fuse, but enough to drain the battery quite quickly.
__________________
T139 FUN FINDER
anthonyx2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2021, 11:40 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,007
Default

Great detective work, Anthony! Next project: figuring out why there is so much moisture on the harness, causing the corrosion. Hopefully not a leak -- hopefully just condensation due to cold weather?

If the latter, maybe increase the air circulation during winter storage??
__________________
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
profdant139 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2021, 05:34 PM   #15
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 16
Send a message via AIM to anthonyx2
Default Salty Fog and found a fridge spark ignition fault

I live on the Atlantic Coast, and we get a lot of damp salty weather. Sometimes the power company even blames "salty fog" for power outages... so much salty moisture in the air that it causes arcing and transformers on the power lines to malfunction. Just rain/moisture running down the wire to the plug/harness was probably collecting salt in there over the years.


Another interesting fault I did find in my wire tracing was a 12v power line under the propane valve of the fridge that was shorting out to the metal base where the electronics and gas line are connected at the back of the fridge. The fridge was working most of the time, OK on 120v but that 12v line charges the spark ignition. I could hear the valve clicking open to start the propane flowing, but there was no "snap" of the igniter. All seems fine with the spark ignition now.
__________________
T139 FUN FINDER
anthonyx2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2021, 08:56 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 197
Default

RE: the possible solutions presented for the OP’s issue, I need to ask, if the battery fuse is “blown” does it mean that there’s no current drawn from the battery AND that there’s no current provided to the battery to recharge it?
In the spirit of “full disclosure” when I hooked up the battery early last month, I did, in fact, do so backwards (reverse polarity)! I promptly corrected my error but know that there’s no “grace period” and any damage occurs instantly. I did check the reverse polarity fuses on my WFCO 8945 power center and they were intact. I was hooked to shore power and everything worked so I assumed no damage occurred (wishful thinking I guess). Went camping and everything continued to function (as far as I knew). While hooked to the TV, all of the 12v items (lights, pump, fridge) worked. Upon our return, after disconnecting from the TV and before hooking up to shore power, I found that NOTHING worked in the camper! I checked the battery fuse and sure enough, it had blown. In retrospect, it’s likely that was a result of my early misadventure when installing the battery. Popped over to my local Walmart and bought some 30 amp fuses (I had 15 amp and 20 amp spares but no 30s). The next morning I disconnected the shore power and the battery charge indicator showed a full charge (which it didn’t with the blown fuse). Interestingly, with the blown fuse, when hooked to shore power, the charge indicator did report the battery as being fully charged. Is that possible?
__________________
If you're not livin' on the edge, you're takin' up too much space!

2007 Shadow Cruiser x210, 2004 RAM 2500 4x4 QuadCab SLT 5.9L CTD, Factory Tow Pkg (3.73 axle), HaulMaster WDH
RipVan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2021, 03:48 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
twinster2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Kalamazoo, MI & Leesburg, FL
Posts: 682
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RipVan View Post
RE: the possible solutions presented for the OP’s issue, I need to ask, if the battery fuse is “blown” does it mean that there’s no current drawn from the battery AND that there’s no current provided to the battery to recharge it?
In the spirit of “full disclosure” when I hooked up the battery early last month, I did, in fact, do so backwards (reverse polarity)! I promptly corrected my error but know that there’s no “grace period” and any damage occurs instantly. I did check the reverse polarity fuses on my WFCO 8945 power center and they were intact. I was hooked to shore power and everything worked so I assumed no damage occurred (wishful thinking I guess). Went camping and everything continued to function (as far as I knew). While hooked to the TV, all of the 12v items (lights, pump, fridge) worked. Upon our return, after disconnecting from the TV and before hooking up to shore power, I found that NOTHING worked in the camper! I checked the battery fuse and sure enough, it had blown. In retrospect, it’s likely that was a result of my early misadventure when installing the battery. Popped over to my local Walmart and bought some 30 amp fuses (I had 15 amp and 20 amp spares but no 30s). The next morning I disconnected the shore power and the battery charge indicator showed a full charge (which it didn’t with the blown fuse). Interestingly, with the blown fuse, when hooked to shore power, the charge indicator did report the battery as being fully charged. Is that possible?
Everything makes sense to me. Even though your battery fuse was blown, your converter pumps out 12volts DC when on shore power (i.e. 120 volts AC). When you were only plugged into your TV, you were running off your TV 12 volt system. When you were not hooked to either shore power or TV, you got zero voltage until you closed the circuit by replacing the fuse.
twinster2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2021, 09:05 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WI
Posts: 197
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by twinster2 View Post
Everything makes sense to me. Even though your battery fuse was blown, your converter pumps out 12volts DC when on shore power (i.e. 120 volts AC). When you were only plugged into your TV, you were running off your TV 12 volt system. When you were not hooked to either shore power or TV, you got zero voltage until you closed the circuit by replacing the fuse.
Thanks for confirming what I was hoping to be the issue. A 60 cent fuse fixed it (but I had to buy five fuses). At least now I have spares.
The battery must have “self-discharged” some mounted on the front of the camper with no energy going in and no purposeful drain going out. 12 hours after putting in the new fuse AND having the camper hooked to shore power, the battery monitor is showing about 3/4 capacity. I’ll check it again tomorrow.
I’m glad the OP sorted his issue but unfortunately, it wasn’t as simple as my fix.
__________________
If you're not livin' on the edge, you're takin' up too much space!

2007 Shadow Cruiser x210, 2004 RAM 2500 4x4 QuadCab SLT 5.9L CTD, Factory Tow Pkg (3.73 axle), HaulMaster WDH
RipVan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2021, 10:38 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
twinster2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Kalamazoo, MI & Leesburg, FL
Posts: 682
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RipVan View Post
Thanks for confirming what I was hoping to be the issue. A 60 cent fuse fixed it (but I had to buy five fuses). At least now I have spares.
The battery must have “self-discharged” some mounted on the front of the camper with no energy going in and no purposeful drain going out. 12 hours after putting in the new fuse AND having the camper hooked to shore power, the battery monitor is showing about 3/4 capacity. I’ll check it again tomorrow.
I’m glad the OP sorted his issue but unfortunately, it wasn’t as simple as my fix.
Yep, most batteries will slowly discharge on their own. Lead acid deep cycle batteries self-discharge at about 4% per week.
twinster2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2021, 10:37 AM   #20
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,007
Default

If it is discharging fast, it could be on its way out. Pro tip: don't leave a lead acid battery to run flat. Keep it topped up. A trickle charger would do the job.

If you just let your battery slowly discharge (especially below 12 volts), it will damage and destroy the battery. Please do not ask how I learned this expensive lesson.

I have been using the BatteryMinderPlus for about ten years now, and I get much better life out of my two group 31 batteries. The BMP pulses, which supposedly reduces sulfation.
__________________

__________________
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
profdant139 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
battery power, no battery power

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Fun Finder RV, Cruiser RV, or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×