Gray water tank damage

[RipVan]

After picking up my FF from the storage barn, I noticed some damage to the gray water holding tank and to the tubing coming from it. (See pic below). Fixing the PVC tubing should be easy enough but unsure about the actual tank repair. I’m thinking J-B Weld but I’m open to suggestions.

https://www.funfinderclub.com/forums...1&d=1686422610

[foakes]

If it were me, Rip —

Determine if the rank is poly or ABS, first.

If ABS, any plumbing department would have the proper ABS weld.

If poly — the best bet would be a fiberglass brush-on patch plus using fiberglass cloth patches.

JB Weld might work for awhile — but with the road vibration — it would end up a temporary fix for just awhile.

Having said that — that is a serious crack at a critical junction.

Even if I used JB Weld, or ABS solvent glue — I would still drop the tank — get it on a bench — and do a proper fiberglass brush on patch job with multiple layers of fiberglass cloth. Let each application dry for 24 hours — then build up another couple of wider layers — allowing each to dry for 24 hours in between.

After you are sure of the repair — then I would also slide a sleeve over the pipe and secure it to the travel trailer with some sort of bracing like plumbers tape — for extra support to prevent it breaking off again.

I have seen these types of repairs hold for years — or not hold at all — and a replacement tank would be called for.

The old tank could also be brittle — and would need replacement anyway.

But a solid repair attempt would be my first solution. Tanks are expensive.

This isn’t a hard job — just takes some patience and regardless of what the product claims — some extra drying time in between coats of Fiberglass resin and fiberglass patch material.

With this type of break — it is good to be generous with the application process.

Home Depot or similar stores have all of this stuff. And the total cost would be in the $40 range for materials.

Let us know what you decide.

Best Always, Fred

[RipVan]

Just what’s involved with “dropping” the tank? What kind of connection comes into the tank from the kitchen sink? I definitely agree that a proper repair would be easier with the tank removed!

[foakes]

The parts holding the grey and black tanks are typically a couple of cross-members on each tank. They nest under a horizontal “shoulder” on each tank — and are attached to the inside of the frame with a couple of hex head bolts (2 on each end)..

After MARKING which sensor wires go where prior to dropping the tank — remove the sensor wires so that they don’t separate when the tank is removed.

Remove any drain and any flush-release water lines.

They should be evident as you drop the tank.

Best, Fred

[RipVan]

Originally Posted by foakes

The parts holding the grey and black tanks are typically a couple of cross-members on each tank. They nest under a horizontal “shoulder” on each tank — and are attached to the inside of the frame with a couple of hex head bolts (2 on each end)..

After MARKING which sensor wires go where prior to dropping the tank — remove the sensor wires so that they don’t separate when the tank is removed.

Remove any drain and any flush-release water lines.

They should be evident as you drop the tank.

Best, Fred

I did see the cross-member rails that support the tank. I’m wondering just how rusted the bolts are . I completely understand the need to label the sensor wires and remove them before starting the removal. I’m still unsure what’s meant by “flush-release water lines”? I thought that only the kitchen sink drained into the gray water tank but I’m thinking that the shower tub does too. Im pretty sure that the bathroom vanity sink drains directly into the black water holding tank. I guess my question is what kind of fitting connects the sink and tub drain line(s) to the holding tank?

[foakes]

I just meant the exterior gate release valve plumbing when we dump our tanks. I flush mine with fresh water during and after dumping.

Don’t know the plumbing connections you are going to run into. But they should be pretty standard as well as accessible after loosening the tank.

I am no expert. Others on here should weigh in with more information.

Before doing the job — pull out one of the hex head self-tappers — then get some new ones from the hardware store. Maybe just a tad larger diameter to bite more securely.

On a 16 year old trailer — I would also research the best price delivered for a new tank. It is plastic — and after repairs — might fail again.

All of this is your call — according to your inspection and what you discover.

I am glad that this discussion came up. The support cross-members might be a good solution for holding up the under floor insulation that I will be installing.

Going to use foam board insulation backed with black coroplast sheets. Making up some cross members using “L” perforated steel angle lengths would be a good solution now — and for future change outs, if needed.

Best, Fred

[GaryCamper]

JB Kwik works better on plastics. I glued some cracks on ABS motorcycle saddlebags about 15 years a ago and it's still holding well.

[RipVan]

We’ll, it’s been a while since the last post AND since I’ve taken any action on this issue . Life, sadly, has gotten in the way of even the possibility of camping this Summer. Additionally, “analysis paralysis” has prevented much, if any, forward movement on the project until last week. While I’m sure that Mr. foakes’ approach suggestions were the best, but I did otherwise (again ) I did look into the complete replacement option but was unable to find the identical tank even at the OEM company. They may have one that would work but even if they did, I didn’t want to “invest” over $250 for a tank at this point in time. I ended up using DEVCON Plastic Weld and followed up (after curing) with a “FlexSeal” knock off rubberized leak repair spray. The DEVCON product seems to have effected a suitable repair but that remains to be seen after being subjected to road vibration. Perhaps the addition of the flexible rubberized leak sealer will be of some help with that possibility. We do have a trip planned (and perhaps another) in September, so time will tell. The PVC connection from the broken stub coming out of the holding tank to the gate valve is a bit “Bubba-rigged” but should work. Again, we’ll see.

[RipVan]

Sorry, should have added a pic of the repair.
https://www.funfinderclub.com/forums...cture1672.jpeg

BTW, if you think that the angle of the PVC connection to the gate valve is the wrong direction, it’s because I have the front of the camper as low as it can be to allow the roof to drain quickly and prevent water from pooling on the roof.