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Old 01-02-2011, 10:40 PM   #1
TCP
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Default holiday mods done

I spent a bit of time on the outside of the x189fds over the christmas season.

I installed a curt 13703 rv hitch onto the rear of the unit so we can attach our bike rack. It took a bit of doing, but did go the way I expected it to. It is attached with four 1/2" bolts through the I-beam frame on each side and runs across rear of the unit just under the body. I modified the brackets that came with the hitch so that each is just a piece of 1/4" flat steel 12" long and 5" high with the 2"x2" holes for the crossbar toward one side. I had to cut slots in the rear crosspiece that the stabilizers are attached to to bring the flat steel through, but a bit of time with a dremel and a few cutoff wheels managed that ok. Then I just market the 4 holes on the I-beams, drilled them out and bolted it on. Gave everything a coat of tremclad rust paint and it should hold on without issue. Sorry no pictures yet, but will update when I do get them.

http://www.realtruck.com/product/109...wder-coat.html

I also added some mud guards behind the rear wheels. Mainly to keep rocks from kicking up on the holding tanks and drain pipes that are right behind there.

I added a strap on each of the grey and black water tanks to help keep them supported if I need to drive with them full or partially full on rougher roads.

I took the liberty of providing some bracing to the fresh water tank as well. There are a two aluminum rectangular tubes (2"x3") going front to back 1/3 and 2/3s across the tanks width. They are held in place with pallet strapping that slings up and around the top of the tank. I has already flattened the bottom of the tank and should keep it from bowing out when full.

that's it for the outside.

In the inside I ran some 6 gauge welding wires from the converter, around the rear of the inside(inside the conduit that is installed by the factory), under the shower and then to a spot under the kitchen sink. My AGM batteries are going to be installed there in a custom rack. ran an electrical line along with a switch wire line up behind the microwave for the inverter power and remote switch so we can use the micro with just battery power. I have a 3500w/7000w peak pure sine inverter for that task, although not quite sure where I can install it yet. Hopefully under the kitchen sink area beside the batteries, but it'll be tight. I have some 2gauge welding wire to get the 100 or so amps from the batteries to the inverter, but hope to keep it as short as possible. everything electrical is interconnected using anderson quick connects. 50 amps for the interior and 175 amps for the inverter. Makes winterizing a lot easier.

http://www.andersonpower.com/products/multipole-sb.html

Still to go:

-change the furnace to a ducted model
-replace light switches with double throw models so we can turn on one or two bulbs in each fixture
-replace converter with my 55amp iota smart unit
-add storage shelf (plastic tupperware kind) to the shower which never gets used anyway. We rarely camp anywhere with hookups.
-um...actually camp in it, come spring
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Old 01-03-2011, 08:32 PM   #2
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You are "smokin!!!" I take it you have yours in a garage??? The 3-wk ice sheet is finally sliding off of the top of my 139 as we speak.....brrrrrrr
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Old 01-03-2011, 09:28 PM   #3
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Default I wish

This was all done outside from -10C to 0C. Usually while laying on some cardboard in the snow. Not horrible if you dress for it, but bulky clothes have impeding properties that slow you down. my unit is parked behind and beside my garage. It has had a snow layer since November. I want it to be ready to go when spring finally hits.
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:00 AM   #4
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Some pictures of the hitch installation and the trailer on our way home from the dealer:

http://picasaweb.google.com/tompreusser/NewTrailer#
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Old 01-25-2011, 04:47 PM   #5
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Great pics!

I know this pegs me as a definite Easterner, but what is the teepee???
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Old 01-25-2011, 10:24 PM   #6
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Default medicine hat

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medicine_Hat

look here under "Attractions". It's the town (city?) where we bought the trailer. We live 200miles away in Calgary.
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Old 01-26-2011, 05:29 AM   #7
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neat..It's HUGE! I do vaguely remember reading about it being moved somewhere...neat landmark!
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Old 01-29-2011, 07:26 PM   #8
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Default Very cool

Nice work - I have started to put receiver on my 2006 Funfinder but it's not done. I used a long chunk of anle iron and welded a reciever tube to it but found the flat rail is not strong enough as is - as soon as the spring comes I will make a tube that will go from one side of the frame rail to the other and then brace the back rail to it. I am planning on putting my storage rack I got from Lowe's on the back with the 1981 Passport scooter we have. It weighs in around 200 lbs and should work good! I think yours is a better idea than building one my way but since I am cheap - we will see how it turns out?
Don't you just love the snow we just got! Yesterday back yard was all melted and dry - today piles and piles of snow with no let up in site! Going to the RV show tomorrow to look for more ideas!
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:36 PM   #9
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Default Let's talk a little Generic 12V stuff...

I like the description of the 12V electrical work. Excellent.

Question: is it reasonable to try to put enough 12V batteries along with the proper wiring and inversion to power the microwave and TV (not necessarily together!)?

The objective would be to avoid the whole generator thing and live on charged batteries between moves.

The question really boils down to what does one really need as far as batteries, wiring and inverter units to get enough 110V AC like power out of a 12V source?

And me an Electrical Engineer (OK, I never actually did that for money so I have my amateur status intact).

TIA,

Kelly Lipp
Elbert Colorado
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:35 PM   #10
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Default Re: Very cool

I spent a couple of hours this morning shoveling it. -20C and a bunch colder with the wind.

I actually though about simply putting a 5" wide L bracket flush with the I-beam frame and up against the rear "panel" that the stabilizers are attached to on each side, then bolting a second L bracket against that on the other side to bring a strong attachment point to the rear of the trailer. Cutting the slots ended up being easier with the hitch I bought. I plan to carry bikes back there or get a storage platform and bolt an action packer type box to it. I can then carry dry firewood or my inverter generator back there. We'll see how the weight distribution works out.

I didn't even know the RV show was on, but I'm always stunned by the size of trailer people are willing to take "camping". Give me quiet site by a river, no services provided and I get the most relaxation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rewindgy
Nice work - I have started to put receiver on my 2006 Funfinder but it's not done. I used a long chunk of anle iron and welded a reciever tube to it but found the flat rail is not strong enough as is - as soon as the spring comes I will make a tube that will go from one side of the frame rail to the other and then brace the back rail to it. I am planning on putting my storage rack I got from Lowe's on the back with the 1981 Passport scooter we have. It weighs in around 200 lbs and should work good! I think yours is a better idea than building one my way but since I am cheap - we will see how it turns out?
Don't you just love the snow we just got! Yesterday back yard was all melted and dry - today piles and piles of snow with no let up in site! Going to the RV show tomorrow to look for more ideas!
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:56 PM   #11
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Default Re: Let's talk a little Generic 12V stuff...

Well, we've managed a full week on battery power without recharging. I have 3 70amp hour AGM batteries. 210amp/hours total and I can run them down to about 50% without causing damage. I figure 100amp hours of energy available.

The microwave draws 1100 watts or so. That's 9-10 amps at 120Vac. The inverter, when powering the microwave, will draw 90-110 amps from the batteries at 12Vdc. I could, therefore, theoretically run the microwave for an hour and draw the batts down 50%. We only use the microwave 2-5 minutes, once or twice a day, so that would allow the batteries to last 10-20 days...running just the microwave.

As far as the inverter goes, I have a 2500watt continuous/5000watt surge true sine wave inverter. I wire the battery power up with a short run of #2 welding cable and then a longer run of 14gauge extension cord for the AC output to the microwave. Mine is this unit:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/5000w-PURE-SINE-W...#ht_4955wt_859

I have two way switches installed on all the internal lights that allow just one or two bulbs to be switched on depending on need. The furnace draws 2.8 amps when it runs and we use it as much as required on cold days or nights. We generally don't stay up late ( two small kids have us needing as much beauty sleep as we can get) so the I'm not sure LED lights are needed right now.

On longer trips I carry a Kipor 2300watt inverter generator that can run the roof AC or recharge batteries should it be required.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kellylipp
I like the description of the 12V electrical work. Excellent.

Question: is it reasonable to try to put enough 12V batteries along with the proper wiring and inversion to power the microwave and TV (not necessarily together!)?

The objective would be to avoid the whole generator thing and live on charged batteries between moves.

The question really boils down to what does one really need as far as batteries, wiring and inverter units to get enough 110V AC like power out of a 12V source?

And me an Electrical Engineer (OK, I never actually did that for money so I have my amateur status intact).

TIA,

Kelly Lipp
Elbert Colorado
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:50 PM   #12
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I know this pegs me as a definite Easterner, but what is the teepee???
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:30 PM   #13
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Hi

I know this is an Old Post, but I'd like to see the pictures if you still have them. I'm trying to figure out how to put a bike rack on the back of my 189fbr.

Thanks
Liz
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